salokcinnodrog

About 750 litres

Hence my post about using marker float and lead😉 Years ago, I did a basic map for Suffolk Water Park, all marker float and lead. I did a complete map of Earith Virginia syndicate, strangely enough, which I sent Guddler a copy.

I'm lucky at Nazeing in that most of the year I can go with an empty water container and fill it at the local caravan park. Mid session even if I have taken water I do go top up there. Sky sometimes drinks water from the lake or local pond, and has been known to get a funny stomach from silty waters, or if there is a bit of algae in it. I have used a filtration pump, and it takes around a minute to get a cup full for coffee. Supposedly boiling lake water for a few minutes is enough to make it safe for drinking, but it won't remove silt or sediment, if you mix the two together you should get very clean water. Take an empty 5l container, filter, then boil a litre or so and you always have water ready to go.

Enjoy, have a good time😉👍🐟

The honest answer is I have never used a fish finder, well with the exception of my own eyes. I have seen Guddler, an old member on here, using a finder attached to his radio control boat at Suffolk Water Park use one to work out the lakebed. That is he got the features mapped out for him on the screen, brilliant, could save a lot of time if you are not marker float and lead orientated. However, it does not tell you where the fish will come in to feed, or even the exact feeding spots😉 I have also had the pleasure of being able to go out in a boat to find features and map a lake, rowing over fish, watching their (occasional non) reaction, even lowering baits in from the boat. For years, pike anglers have been using fish finders on boats, discovering large shapes, fish in midwater, and it can give an idea where the fish are, although a pike resting midwater, it can take a lot of bait finding what it wants, or even watching it ignore everything. Your eyes can tell you so much, from slight swirls, to shows like rolling, coloured water, or even real jumping. Technology is brilliant, but the Mark l eyeball is more brillianter😖😉😅🐟

I used to use back leads years ago, late 1980's and discovered a few problems. If the bottom is undulating, basically with rises, dips and troughs, the line is not pinned down across the lakebed. You can pin it down in the margins near you, then from top of bar to next bar, it is mid water. If there is any weed, you can be pulling your line down into it. If you play a fish you can basically trap your back lead on the line with the weed until it clears. If you play a fish with your other line going from bar to bar, you do not know where the other line is, so it is difficult to play around. I also found bite indication was reduced. You are creating another angle in your line that needs to be pulled through to get buzzer or indicator movement. I can totally understand the need to get your lines down in the water on a water with boats on it, but on Nazeing as an example, fishing on the 100 metre bar, my back lead would be in a metre of water, in the margins, the line would be straight to the 50 metre bar, tight to the next bar, basically running mid-water. With my rod tips low to the water, the line is below most of the yachts, even at 50metres, below the power boat engine. Vik makes a very valid point about lines, I can see where I need to play the fish, even on three rods. I can lower my rod playing the fish to keep the line below other rods, or if it goes over another play it around the other rods, even if it is the middle rod. On the occasion it does go near another line, you can see the line lifting if underneath, or if over and tangles, play the fish, and sort them later. In most cases, I actually play fish with my rod low near other lines, not lifting until it is well clear. That way if a fish being played does go near the other rods, it is under, which is easier to play without tangling.

I don't know what the fault is. On the post section you have a lower section that says 'click to choose files', below that is accepted file types, gif, jpeg, jpe, jpe, png and Max total size 8MB. Click to choose files on ipad and it brings up where the pictures are stored, 'tick' the pics, then 'done' and they will or should upload. If your wifi, data link (phone internet connection) or broadband is slow or pauses, then it can fail to upload. The other way is to go back to third party hosting, having a web site store your pictures, then adding in the picture link as an 'img' link

Agree on that; glycerine mixed in with Amino rich hydroslate, CSL, liquid yeast is a different beast to just a plain flavour.

The answer I think lies in the preservation process, the glycerol sugar syrup dip. Years ago, on a personal note, I found glycerol based flavours were often more attractive than other flavour solvent bases, and I think the glycerol is an attractor in its own right, but add it with a sugar you have mega instant attraction. There was also a sweet flavour that also worked best at high levels, chocolate malt. Very 'sticky' sickly sweet, but boy did it work, and Rod Hutchinson rated it highly. Most definitely this glycerol sugar preservative holds back the long term attraction of the enzymes and sugars coming to the fore. I think it, not necessarily kills enzyme activity, but most definitely reduces it. Freezer baits I think work on day 2/3/4 on this enzyme activity, the efflorescence, even if Yonny and I disagree on how it works. (And good, be a boring world if we were all the same😉) Do glugs and dips add to baits? I think the answer is in how you use them. For instant attraction, yes, but not for long term use, where you are trying to create a food source. Saying that, by the third day, if uneaten, I think the dip/glug will have been washed out, and you are left with the bait as it stands. The 'unknown' advantage of many dips or glugs, is they harden the baits. Guess what the base preservative or ingredient is in these baits, and I think the hardening ingredient itself: Glycerol or glycerine. Mix that with CSL liquid or molasses, yeast etc, and you have more instant attraction. That is my view, but I would like other opinions on it, either agreeing or disagreeing.

This may be of interest:

Welcome to carp.com. Have fun finding your way around. I hope we can help with advice or ideas on any questions you have.

Just saw a copy of Carp Fever by Kevin Maddocks on Abebooks for £4 with free carriage.

They can be temperamental. You may need to 'grease' up the stem to stop it 'sticking' to the water. Mind you, casting an adjustable zig rig can be awkward to cast, but definitely less so than an 8 foot hooklink!

Totally agree about the riggy bit, and it is one of the situations where I have seen carp actually pick up baits rather than suck them in, it is where heavily fished for carp do need adaptions on the rig, or lead set up. I put lead set up as by changing from a semi-fixed lead to running lead can put fish on the bank, as can changing rig and hair length. I wonder how many anglers do over bait on fishing a swim, adding even more onto what is already there from the previous angler? We can very rarely see what is there from before we get there!

Used them years ago, very handy piece of kit😉