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garysj01

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  1. Haha
    garysj01 got a reaction from Carpmaster in New Favourite Photo   
    Every time i look at this it makes me laugh
     

  2. Haha
    garysj01 got a reaction from Machali in New Favourite Photo   
    Every time i look at this it makes me laugh
     

  3. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from CarpFishingUK99 in Carp Care For Beginners   
    Carp care is one of those aspects of carp fishing that should be taken seriously as we all have a responsibility to look after the quarry we fish for, especially the bigger species like Carp, Pike, Catfish, Sturgeon and Zander.
    I still to this day see fishermen using inadequate gear for the job, and regularly see anglers using nets that are to small for the species they are fishing for. Sometimes being dragged up the bank and then set on to hard ground, without any consideration for the fish what so ever.
    So I am setting out to cover some of the essentials that you should have before you even think about going fishing.
     
    First and foremost I would like to cover Landing Nets, it is your responsibility to ensure you have a landing net that is big enough for the job. At the very least you should be using a 36 inch net, here I have a 42 inch net, that is more than capable of handling bigger carp.

    If you are Sturgeon or Catfishing you might want to consider using a 50 inch net.
    Now I usually try to unhook the fish in the net even before I think of lifting the fish before an Unhooking Mat. If I can not unhook the fish I will careful run my hand under the fish to make sure all of the fins are facing towards the back of the fish. If the fins are left sticking out from the fish you are running the risk of getting them caught in the net and possibly breaking the fins. Take hold of the net at the spreader block with one hand and the front of the net with the other and gently lift the fish up and out of the water. Making sure the fins are all facing toward the back of the fish, and gently lower down on to your unhooking mat.
    That leads me nicely on to unhooking mats, there is no excuse these days, you can buy unhooking mats in various sizes nowadays for very little money. It is not acceptable to be just using a towel, especially with the bigger species. Always make sure that your mat is wet, you don't want to be putting a large fish down on to a dry mat, this can take away some of the fishes protective mucus.

    You should always have a bucket to hand full of lake water, to pour over the fish while it is laying on the mat. This is the one I use, its really a expander bait bucket, but it holds a lot of water and is easy to fold up and pack away into my rod quiver. You must keep this fish wet at all times. If this fish starts to flap around while on the mat, you can just simply cover its head with either part of the unhooking mat or just place your hand gently over the eye, until the fish calms down. The next items I would like to run through are the unhooking tools. These are the two tools I use for removing hooks.

    I use these tools as they give me better purchase when unhooking fish. The long nose pliers are for unhooking the fish and the cutters are for cutting through the hooks. So much damage is done to fishes mouths through anglers, and all you have to do is just use a bit of common sense, if the hook has gone all the way through the mouth of the fish then just cut the hook in half. Remember your priority is to fishes welfare, hooks are a few pence each.

    The bottle in the picture is fish antiseptic, this should be used if the fish has either spawning damage to scales, any cuts or grazes and should be used on the wound the hook has caused. In all honesty hook holes usually heal themselves, but I certainly doesn't hurt to put some on just in case. If I saw a scale missing or any cuts and grazes to a fish I would squeeze some of the antiseptic on to the area and gently rub into the wound. As for mouth damage I just find it easier to use these cotton buds. Just squeeze a little antiseptic on to the cotton bud and treat the area, inside and out if necessary.
    If you are not weighing the fish then, again, make sure all of the fins are facing towards the tail end of the fish and return to the water in your landing net. Do not pick up the fish to return as the fish may flap around causing you to drop the fish on to the ground. Whilst the fish is in the water take hold of the tail and gently hold the fish in the upright position until the fish either kicks or feels strong enough to release. Do not just put the fish back into the water and hope for the best.
    None of these tools have to be expensive, but we all have a duty to care for the fish we catch for future generations to come.
    That's it for now, that is the essential kit guide for the newcomer to the sport, if you are a little unsure of what you are doing try to go with someone who is more experienced and let them show you how to look after our fish.
    It is also worth a mention that if dipping tanks are supplied, it is your responsibility to use these tanks and dip all of your carp care gear.
    When you get all of your gear home you should wash it all down with clean water and leave out in the sun to dry as the UV rays will kill most of the parasites, associated with harming fish.
    These days the carp care gear isn't expensive and is often over looked by a lot of anglers. Before you rush out to buy your first rod and reel you must take into consideration the fish you are angling for, and purchase some of these items to protect the fish for future generations.
     
    Next time i will move on to weighing and handling fish, until then, be lucky
  4. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from bobfloat in New Favourite Photo   
    Every time i look at this it makes me laugh
     

  5. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from TopDj in SWEARING   
    Can i remind all user's of carp.com that swearing isn't allowed. If you hide words behind asterick's or the [censored] box is seen on any post, the post will simply be removed. No matter how tame you think the word is, if its in the [censored] box then its banned. You have an edit button in the top, right hand corner of all of your post's, there is no excuse, rules are rules.
     
    http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=47539
  6. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from miltons in SWEARING   
    Can i remind all user's of carp.com that swearing isn't allowed. If you hide words behind asterick's or the [censored] box is seen on any post, the post will simply be removed. No matter how tame you think the word is, if its in the [censored] box then its banned. You have an edit button in the top, right hand corner of all of your post's, there is no excuse, rules are rules.
     
    http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=47539
  7. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from ReadingRich in Carp Care For Beginners   
    Carp care is one of those aspects of carp fishing that should be taken seriously as we all have a responsibility to look after the quarry we fish for, especially the bigger species like Carp, Pike, Catfish, Sturgeon and Zander.
    I still to this day see fishermen using inadequate gear for the job, and regularly see anglers using nets that are to small for the species they are fishing for. Sometimes being dragged up the bank and then set on to hard ground, without any consideration for the fish what so ever.
    So I am setting out to cover some of the essentials that you should have before you even think about going fishing.
     
    First and foremost I would like to cover Landing Nets, it is your responsibility to ensure you have a landing net that is big enough for the job. At the very least you should be using a 36 inch net, here I have a 42 inch net, that is more than capable of handling bigger carp.

    If you are Sturgeon or Catfishing you might want to consider using a 50 inch net.
    Now I usually try to unhook the fish in the net even before I think of lifting the fish before an Unhooking Mat. If I can not unhook the fish I will careful run my hand under the fish to make sure all of the fins are facing towards the back of the fish. If the fins are left sticking out from the fish you are running the risk of getting them caught in the net and possibly breaking the fins. Take hold of the net at the spreader block with one hand and the front of the net with the other and gently lift the fish up and out of the water. Making sure the fins are all facing toward the back of the fish, and gently lower down on to your unhooking mat.
    That leads me nicely on to unhooking mats, there is no excuse these days, you can buy unhooking mats in various sizes nowadays for very little money. It is not acceptable to be just using a towel, especially with the bigger species. Always make sure that your mat is wet, you don't want to be putting a large fish down on to a dry mat, this can take away some of the fishes protective mucus.

    You should always have a bucket to hand full of lake water, to pour over the fish while it is laying on the mat. This is the one I use, its really a expander bait bucket, but it holds a lot of water and is easy to fold up and pack away into my rod quiver. You must keep this fish wet at all times. If this fish starts to flap around while on the mat, you can just simply cover its head with either part of the unhooking mat or just place your hand gently over the eye, until the fish calms down. The next items I would like to run through are the unhooking tools. These are the two tools I use for removing hooks.

    I use these tools as they give me better purchase when unhooking fish. The long nose pliers are for unhooking the fish and the cutters are for cutting through the hooks. So much damage is done to fishes mouths through anglers, and all you have to do is just use a bit of common sense, if the hook has gone all the way through the mouth of the fish then just cut the hook in half. Remember your priority is to fishes welfare, hooks are a few pence each.

    The bottle in the picture is fish antiseptic, this should be used if the fish has either spawning damage to scales, any cuts or grazes and should be used on the wound the hook has caused. In all honesty hook holes usually heal themselves, but I certainly doesn't hurt to put some on just in case. If I saw a scale missing or any cuts and grazes to a fish I would squeeze some of the antiseptic on to the area and gently rub into the wound. As for mouth damage I just find it easier to use these cotton buds. Just squeeze a little antiseptic on to the cotton bud and treat the area, inside and out if necessary.
    If you are not weighing the fish then, again, make sure all of the fins are facing towards the tail end of the fish and return to the water in your landing net. Do not pick up the fish to return as the fish may flap around causing you to drop the fish on to the ground. Whilst the fish is in the water take hold of the tail and gently hold the fish in the upright position until the fish either kicks or feels strong enough to release. Do not just put the fish back into the water and hope for the best.
    None of these tools have to be expensive, but we all have a duty to care for the fish we catch for future generations to come.
    That's it for now, that is the essential kit guide for the newcomer to the sport, if you are a little unsure of what you are doing try to go with someone who is more experienced and let them show you how to look after our fish.
    It is also worth a mention that if dipping tanks are supplied, it is your responsibility to use these tanks and dip all of your carp care gear.
    When you get all of your gear home you should wash it all down with clean water and leave out in the sun to dry as the UV rays will kill most of the parasites, associated with harming fish.
    These days the carp care gear isn't expensive and is often over looked by a lot of anglers. Before you rush out to buy your first rod and reel you must take into consideration the fish you are angling for, and purchase some of these items to protect the fish for future generations.
     
    Next time i will move on to weighing and handling fish, until then, be lucky
  8. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from cliveware in Your 'go anywere' rig?   
    Mine is a very simple rig, its just 6 inches of 15lb Kameleon Braid, tied knotless knot style at the hook end. The only difference being is i tie a mini rig ring instead of a hair, i then tie the bait on using bait floss threaded through the chosen bait. This enables me to use any size bait to suit any situation.
  9. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from stickmix in Carp Care For Beginners   
    Carp care is one of those aspects of carp fishing that should be taken seriously as we all have a responsibility to look after the quarry we fish for, especially the bigger species like Carp, Pike, Catfish, Sturgeon and Zander.
    I still to this day see fishermen using inadequate gear for the job, and regularly see anglers using nets that are to small for the species they are fishing for. Sometimes being dragged up the bank and then set on to hard ground, without any consideration for the fish what so ever.
    So I am setting out to cover some of the essentials that you should have before you even think about going fishing.
     
    First and foremost I would like to cover Landing Nets, it is your responsibility to ensure you have a landing net that is big enough for the job. At the very least you should be using a 36 inch net, here I have a 42 inch net, that is more than capable of handling bigger carp.

    If you are Sturgeon or Catfishing you might want to consider using a 50 inch net.
    Now I usually try to unhook the fish in the net even before I think of lifting the fish before an Unhooking Mat. If I can not unhook the fish I will careful run my hand under the fish to make sure all of the fins are facing towards the back of the fish. If the fins are left sticking out from the fish you are running the risk of getting them caught in the net and possibly breaking the fins. Take hold of the net at the spreader block with one hand and the front of the net with the other and gently lift the fish up and out of the water. Making sure the fins are all facing toward the back of the fish, and gently lower down on to your unhooking mat.
    That leads me nicely on to unhooking mats, there is no excuse these days, you can buy unhooking mats in various sizes nowadays for very little money. It is not acceptable to be just using a towel, especially with the bigger species. Always make sure that your mat is wet, you don't want to be putting a large fish down on to a dry mat, this can take away some of the fishes protective mucus.

    You should always have a bucket to hand full of lake water, to pour over the fish while it is laying on the mat. This is the one I use, its really a expander bait bucket, but it holds a lot of water and is easy to fold up and pack away into my rod quiver. You must keep this fish wet at all times. If this fish starts to flap around while on the mat, you can just simply cover its head with either part of the unhooking mat or just place your hand gently over the eye, until the fish calms down. The next items I would like to run through are the unhooking tools. These are the two tools I use for removing hooks.

    I use these tools as they give me better purchase when unhooking fish. The long nose pliers are for unhooking the fish and the cutters are for cutting through the hooks. So much damage is done to fishes mouths through anglers, and all you have to do is just use a bit of common sense, if the hook has gone all the way through the mouth of the fish then just cut the hook in half. Remember your priority is to fishes welfare, hooks are a few pence each.

    The bottle in the picture is fish antiseptic, this should be used if the fish has either spawning damage to scales, any cuts or grazes and should be used on the wound the hook has caused. In all honesty hook holes usually heal themselves, but I certainly doesn't hurt to put some on just in case. If I saw a scale missing or any cuts and grazes to a fish I would squeeze some of the antiseptic on to the area and gently rub into the wound. As for mouth damage I just find it easier to use these cotton buds. Just squeeze a little antiseptic on to the cotton bud and treat the area, inside and out if necessary.
    If you are not weighing the fish then, again, make sure all of the fins are facing towards the tail end of the fish and return to the water in your landing net. Do not pick up the fish to return as the fish may flap around causing you to drop the fish on to the ground. Whilst the fish is in the water take hold of the tail and gently hold the fish in the upright position until the fish either kicks or feels strong enough to release. Do not just put the fish back into the water and hope for the best.
    None of these tools have to be expensive, but we all have a duty to care for the fish we catch for future generations to come.
    That's it for now, that is the essential kit guide for the newcomer to the sport, if you are a little unsure of what you are doing try to go with someone who is more experienced and let them show you how to look after our fish.
    It is also worth a mention that if dipping tanks are supplied, it is your responsibility to use these tanks and dip all of your carp care gear.
    When you get all of your gear home you should wash it all down with clean water and leave out in the sun to dry as the UV rays will kill most of the parasites, associated with harming fish.
    These days the carp care gear isn't expensive and is often over looked by a lot of anglers. Before you rush out to buy your first rod and reel you must take into consideration the fish you are angling for, and purchase some of these items to protect the fish for future generations.
     
    Next time i will move on to weighing and handling fish, until then, be lucky
  10. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from miloman in Carp Care For Beginners   
    Carp care is one of those aspects of carp fishing that should be taken seriously as we all have a responsibility to look after the quarry we fish for, especially the bigger species like Carp, Pike, Catfish, Sturgeon and Zander.
    I still to this day see fishermen using inadequate gear for the job, and regularly see anglers using nets that are to small for the species they are fishing for. Sometimes being dragged up the bank and then set on to hard ground, without any consideration for the fish what so ever.
    So I am setting out to cover some of the essentials that you should have before you even think about going fishing.
     
    First and foremost I would like to cover Landing Nets, it is your responsibility to ensure you have a landing net that is big enough for the job. At the very least you should be using a 36 inch net, here I have a 42 inch net, that is more than capable of handling bigger carp.

    If you are Sturgeon or Catfishing you might want to consider using a 50 inch net.
    Now I usually try to unhook the fish in the net even before I think of lifting the fish before an Unhooking Mat. If I can not unhook the fish I will careful run my hand under the fish to make sure all of the fins are facing towards the back of the fish. If the fins are left sticking out from the fish you are running the risk of getting them caught in the net and possibly breaking the fins. Take hold of the net at the spreader block with one hand and the front of the net with the other and gently lift the fish up and out of the water. Making sure the fins are all facing toward the back of the fish, and gently lower down on to your unhooking mat.
    That leads me nicely on to unhooking mats, there is no excuse these days, you can buy unhooking mats in various sizes nowadays for very little money. It is not acceptable to be just using a towel, especially with the bigger species. Always make sure that your mat is wet, you don't want to be putting a large fish down on to a dry mat, this can take away some of the fishes protective mucus.

    You should always have a bucket to hand full of lake water, to pour over the fish while it is laying on the mat. This is the one I use, its really a expander bait bucket, but it holds a lot of water and is easy to fold up and pack away into my rod quiver. You must keep this fish wet at all times. If this fish starts to flap around while on the mat, you can just simply cover its head with either part of the unhooking mat or just place your hand gently over the eye, until the fish calms down. The next items I would like to run through are the unhooking tools. These are the two tools I use for removing hooks.

    I use these tools as they give me better purchase when unhooking fish. The long nose pliers are for unhooking the fish and the cutters are for cutting through the hooks. So much damage is done to fishes mouths through anglers, and all you have to do is just use a bit of common sense, if the hook has gone all the way through the mouth of the fish then just cut the hook in half. Remember your priority is to fishes welfare, hooks are a few pence each.

    The bottle in the picture is fish antiseptic, this should be used if the fish has either spawning damage to scales, any cuts or grazes and should be used on the wound the hook has caused. In all honesty hook holes usually heal themselves, but I certainly doesn't hurt to put some on just in case. If I saw a scale missing or any cuts and grazes to a fish I would squeeze some of the antiseptic on to the area and gently rub into the wound. As for mouth damage I just find it easier to use these cotton buds. Just squeeze a little antiseptic on to the cotton bud and treat the area, inside and out if necessary.
    If you are not weighing the fish then, again, make sure all of the fins are facing towards the tail end of the fish and return to the water in your landing net. Do not pick up the fish to return as the fish may flap around causing you to drop the fish on to the ground. Whilst the fish is in the water take hold of the tail and gently hold the fish in the upright position until the fish either kicks or feels strong enough to release. Do not just put the fish back into the water and hope for the best.
    None of these tools have to be expensive, but we all have a duty to care for the fish we catch for future generations to come.
    That's it for now, that is the essential kit guide for the newcomer to the sport, if you are a little unsure of what you are doing try to go with someone who is more experienced and let them show you how to look after our fish.
    It is also worth a mention that if dipping tanks are supplied, it is your responsibility to use these tanks and dip all of your carp care gear.
    When you get all of your gear home you should wash it all down with clean water and leave out in the sun to dry as the UV rays will kill most of the parasites, associated with harming fish.
    These days the carp care gear isn't expensive and is often over looked by a lot of anglers. Before you rush out to buy your first rod and reel you must take into consideration the fish you are angling for, and purchase some of these items to protect the fish for future generations.
     
    Next time i will move on to weighing and handling fish, until then, be lucky
  11. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from miloman in Leadcore   
    Hi everyone
    Recently i have been spending a lot of my time trying to disprove the danger theory regarding leadcore, yes leadcore, i hear a lot of you shriek NO.
    Whether we like it or not, anglers are going to use it, full stop. Due to its press in the media, new anglers especially are going to see their idols catching fish on a regular basis and want to get on to leadcore with realising the danger it can pose. I myself have used it for years, i absolutely loved the stuff it meant i could disquise my rig as good as could, i could fish next to snags and weed without the fear of getting cut off. But recently i read a thread that pointed out (among other issue,s) because of the abrasive nature of leadcore it could possibly cause damage to the fish. This did indeed started me thinking about the usage of leadcore and to be honest i raged war on everybody who strongly advised against its use.
    There are a few problems with leadcore so i will address them one by one.
     
    Firstly
    Leadcore twisting and kinking on the cast, therefore stoping any beads or swivels attached to a hooklink from coming off the leadcore should your rig snap off.
    I did play around with this for ages and the best way to stop this happening was to take out the lead inner, now im not saying this stopped the problem 100% but it did greatly reduce this happening on the cast.
     
    Secondly
    The lead inner sometimes after a bit of use can penetrate through the outer wall of leadcore causing the problem stated above. As before by taking out the inner core you can reduce this happening.
     
    Thirdly
    Bits of weed and debri getting caught in the spliced loops of leadcore, thus stoping any rig from coming off should you suffer a snap off.
    Tie the leadcore to the swivel or lead using a 4 or 5 turn grinner knot and to connect the mainline at the top, pull the mainline through the leadcore and out of the side and tie a 4 to 5 turn grinner knot on the outside of the leedcore, i for one have never trusted loops and when i did i purchased some already tied and they came undone, thankfully the lead end and not the mainline end.
     
    Fourthly
    This is the one i really struggled with, the abrasive nature of leadcore, meaning it can damage fish. This one i played round with smothering the outer core with tungsten putty, plastercine and all manner of substances to try and get the outer core just a bit smoother. I cannot get this outer core to a sufficant enough smoothness to guarantee it not damaging the fish. And believe me i have tested and tried for a long time now.
     
    In conclusion i know there are probably a lot more aspects about leadcore which i have missed but these have been the ones i see commonly brought up in threads concerning leadcore safety.
    And for this reason i will not be using leadcore and would advise unless you absolutely need to use it then dont.
     
    Many thanks for reading
    Gary
     
    PS i suspect one of the moderators or administrators will probably put this somewhere else but i just thought i was worth mentioning on a fresh thread
  12. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from SamuelPt in Tackle Reviews   
    Anyone used a new bit of gear lately and fancies telling us about it? go on lads let us know how you got on.
  13. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from Martinmi in Tackle Reviews   
    Anyone used a new bit of gear lately and fancies telling us about it? go on lads let us know how you got on.
  14. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from manc70 in Night Fishing Essentials   
    Shelters
     
    Firstly look at where you will be putting your shelter, try to squeeze under a tree or tight to a hedge or a bush to keep you out of the wind as much as possible.
    Twin skin shelters are probably the best shelter you can use, as the air between the skins adds warmth by providing an insulating layer. This also reduces condensation that sometimes forms under single skin shelters that can drip over your sleeping bag, making your stay uncomfortable.
    Make sure you check your shelter is regularly water proofed, you can either use the Fabsil spray or the paint on variety.
    Make sure your Shelter is securely pegged down, i tend to push the pegs down at a slight angle to prevent them being pulled out so easily.
    For those of you who use brollies it might be worth you buying an over wrap, it wont eliminate the condensation totally but it does reduce it a little.
     
    This is how i arrange my shelter



     
    Arranging your shelter properly will pay dividends at night, try to use the same lay out every time you go fishing until you become familiar with the way it is set up. Soon enough you will know where everything is even in the dark and you won't be fumbling around looking for bits and pieces. Notice in the second picture i always have my foot wear to the right hand side of the door. Getting a run at night can be a very confusing situation so it is important that you know where all of your gear is before hand.
    Even the cook wear is always just outside the bivvy to the left hand side, i just find it easier to the left. Never bring your cook wear inside, always do the cooking and changing of gas outside.
    The floor i like to cover in an old army blanket, these are very warm to the touch in Winter, and stop some of the cold coming through the floor. I also like to use a mat in the entrance of the door just to wipe my feet as i enter the bivvy and its also somewhere to keep muddy boots.

     
    Sleeping Attire
     
    A decent comfortable bedchair is a must, what ever sleep you do get you will want to make sure its as comfortable as possible. I have a six leg bedchair version, which is just perfect for setting up on any ground. Also i never tighten the spigot joints down, i think it just gives you a little more freedom when setting up over uneven ground.

    The sleeping bag i have is a five season sleeping bag, with a fleece inner, this particular sleeping bag has a hood at the top and the bottom of the bag which slides over each end of your bedchair. There is also a retaining strap just to secure the sleeping bag down about mid way. All of these points keep the sleeping bag nice and stretched out over the bedchair which make for a more comfortable sleep.
    I also use a bedchair cover which has six retaining straps that clip around the legs of the bedchair.

    This just ensures the damp air stays out of your sleeping bag, and i quite often only use this cover during the summer months when the five season bag would just simply be to warm.
    Make sure that when you are not sleeping, the bedchair is fully covered with this cover, there is nothing worst than climbing into a damp sleeping bag. For Winter months you might also want to consider purchasing a hot water bottle and put this in the sleeping bag about an hour before you intend going to sleep.
     
    Cook Wear
     
    If you are using a gas cooker i would suggest buying one of these little converters.

    This is just so you are not tied to purchasing one type of can of gas, a lot of the screw top versions are more expensive than the bayonet versions. This cap simply screws onto your gas bottle connector, so you can use both types of cans.

    These shields really make a difference, wrapped around the stove, firstly protecting anything from getting burnt and keeping the wind off your gas.

     
    Important Note
     
    While on the subject of stoves, please do not use your stove or lantern while your shelter is zipped up. The evaporation of CARBON MONOXIDE is greatly reduced by the thermal barrier in between the two skins of your bivvy, especially when your shelter is either wet, iced over or covered in snow. The side effects of CARBON MONOXIDE poisoning are as follows.
     
    Mild Frontal Headache, malaise, nausea, vomiting, dizziness and manual loss of dexterity.
    Headache with rapid heartbeat, confusion, lethargy, visual disturbances.
    Death can happen with in one to two hours of exposer.
     
    You and Bits and Pieces
     
    Torches, headtorches and bivvy lights are all a good idea to have, always make sure you have spare batteries. Make sure your mobile phone is fully charged, just in case. I usually hang my headtorch on the spigot joint of the bedchair. You might even want to consider getting yourself a little pocket radio, just to give yourself something to listen to during those long dark nights. Personally i like to take a book to read.

     
    I always wear thermals and a good pair of socks underneath all of my clothing. Hats, scarves and gloves are also going to help keep you warm. There are many winter suits available now on the market but make sure they are waterproof and again if need be use Fabsil on these as well. Take a few towels and a change of clothes and a spare pair of boots, trainers etc....... just in case.
    Contrary to belief you dont loose most of your heat out of your head you are just as likely if not more likely to loose more heat out of your arms or legs, so remember keep them covered.
    Make sure you have plenty of water for hot drinks and food and if your using a gas stove make sure the canister is wrapped in something warm as gas can and will freeze. In addition high calorie foods will help to keep you warm, i always cook what's easiest and quickest and eat little and often, soups, pot noodles, instant mash, tinned curries etc.......
     
    The moral of the story is to be prepared, keep everything tidy, and get familiar with the layout of your shelter. Night fishing and Winter fishing in particular can be quite hard, but with a few easy steps and a bit of thought, you should enjoy your sessions, no matter what the weather throws at you.
  15. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from getinthere in Carp Care For Beginners   
    Carp care is one of those aspects of carp fishing that should be taken seriously as we all have a responsibility to look after the quarry we fish for, especially the bigger species like Carp, Pike, Catfish, Sturgeon and Zander.
    I still to this day see fishermen using inadequate gear for the job, and regularly see anglers using nets that are to small for the species they are fishing for. Sometimes being dragged up the bank and then set on to hard ground, without any consideration for the fish what so ever.
    So I am setting out to cover some of the essentials that you should have before you even think about going fishing.
     
    First and foremost I would like to cover Landing Nets, it is your responsibility to ensure you have a landing net that is big enough for the job. At the very least you should be using a 36 inch net, here I have a 42 inch net, that is more than capable of handling bigger carp.

    If you are Sturgeon or Catfishing you might want to consider using a 50 inch net.
    Now I usually try to unhook the fish in the net even before I think of lifting the fish before an Unhooking Mat. If I can not unhook the fish I will careful run my hand under the fish to make sure all of the fins are facing towards the back of the fish. If the fins are left sticking out from the fish you are running the risk of getting them caught in the net and possibly breaking the fins. Take hold of the net at the spreader block with one hand and the front of the net with the other and gently lift the fish up and out of the water. Making sure the fins are all facing toward the back of the fish, and gently lower down on to your unhooking mat.
    That leads me nicely on to unhooking mats, there is no excuse these days, you can buy unhooking mats in various sizes nowadays for very little money. It is not acceptable to be just using a towel, especially with the bigger species. Always make sure that your mat is wet, you don't want to be putting a large fish down on to a dry mat, this can take away some of the fishes protective mucus.

    You should always have a bucket to hand full of lake water, to pour over the fish while it is laying on the mat. This is the one I use, its really a expander bait bucket, but it holds a lot of water and is easy to fold up and pack away into my rod quiver. You must keep this fish wet at all times. If this fish starts to flap around while on the mat, you can just simply cover its head with either part of the unhooking mat or just place your hand gently over the eye, until the fish calms down. The next items I would like to run through are the unhooking tools. These are the two tools I use for removing hooks.

    I use these tools as they give me better purchase when unhooking fish. The long nose pliers are for unhooking the fish and the cutters are for cutting through the hooks. So much damage is done to fishes mouths through anglers, and all you have to do is just use a bit of common sense, if the hook has gone all the way through the mouth of the fish then just cut the hook in half. Remember your priority is to fishes welfare, hooks are a few pence each.

    The bottle in the picture is fish antiseptic, this should be used if the fish has either spawning damage to scales, any cuts or grazes and should be used on the wound the hook has caused. In all honesty hook holes usually heal themselves, but I certainly doesn't hurt to put some on just in case. If I saw a scale missing or any cuts and grazes to a fish I would squeeze some of the antiseptic on to the area and gently rub into the wound. As for mouth damage I just find it easier to use these cotton buds. Just squeeze a little antiseptic on to the cotton bud and treat the area, inside and out if necessary.
    If you are not weighing the fish then, again, make sure all of the fins are facing towards the tail end of the fish and return to the water in your landing net. Do not pick up the fish to return as the fish may flap around causing you to drop the fish on to the ground. Whilst the fish is in the water take hold of the tail and gently hold the fish in the upright position until the fish either kicks or feels strong enough to release. Do not just put the fish back into the water and hope for the best.
    None of these tools have to be expensive, but we all have a duty to care for the fish we catch for future generations to come.
    That's it for now, that is the essential kit guide for the newcomer to the sport, if you are a little unsure of what you are doing try to go with someone who is more experienced and let them show you how to look after our fish.
    It is also worth a mention that if dipping tanks are supplied, it is your responsibility to use these tanks and dip all of your carp care gear.
    When you get all of your gear home you should wash it all down with clean water and leave out in the sun to dry as the UV rays will kill most of the parasites, associated with harming fish.
    These days the carp care gear isn't expensive and is often over looked by a lot of anglers. Before you rush out to buy your first rod and reel you must take into consideration the fish you are angling for, and purchase some of these items to protect the fish for future generations.
     
    Next time i will move on to weighing and handling fish, until then, be lucky
  16. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from newmarket in Aquatic Vegetation and Photosynthesis   
    Photosynthesis is the process by which land and aquatic plants use to produce food. Both types of plants require carbon dioxide, water and energy to produce glucose (their food). The only difference between photosynthesis in land and aquatic plants is where in their environments they get these nutrients. Land plants get food from the ground through their extensive root system, carbon dioxide from the air through their Stomata (tiny holes in a plants leaves) and energy from the sun. Aquatic plants get water and carbon dioxide form their aquatic environment and, like land plants, light energy from the sun. Oxygen is produced during photosynthesis and consumed during respiration and decomposition. Because it requires light, photosynthesis only occurs during day light hours. Respiration and decomposition, on the other hand, occur 24 hours a day. This difference alone can account for large daily variations in D,O concentrations.
    D,O (dissolved oxygen) is oxygen that is dissolved in water, the oxygen dissolves by diffusion from the surrounding air, as a waste product of photosynthesis.
    During the night, when photosynthesis cannot counterbalance the loss of oxygen through respiration and decomposition, D,O concentrations steadily decline. They are lowest just before dawn, when photosynthesis resumes. Where as at just before dusk, D,O concentrations are very high and many weedy waters can become super saturated, in other words the vegetation is producing more oxygen than is escaping.
    Like all animals, fish need oxygen to live. As water moves past their gills, microscopic bubbles of oxygen (D,O) are transferred from the water to their blood.
    Carp can tolerate a wide range of environmental conditions, including low D,O concentrations for several days, but its not without affect. Some species of carp can actually lower their own metabolic rate during periods of low D,O concentrations. They will become lethargic and stop feeding. As oxygen levels decrease, carp do not have enough energy to swim and feed. Carp can quite often be seen in the upper water layer column at the top of any vegetation where D,O levels are highest during the day. Most of the time you can just either see a dorsal fin or the back of a carp just protruding out of the surface of the water. Usually they remain very still unless they are spooked for some reason. It is believed that they are soaking up the rays from the sun but I also think that the carp are a lot more comfortable in this situation for a variety of reasons.

    Carp will often leave vegetated area's seeking open water that will have higher D,O concentration levels as weeded up area's are rapidly declining in D,O levels during the night.
    To give an example Simon Scott took readings at the North Lake on the Yately Complex. The lowest readings were at dawn at 30% saturation which equates to 2.5 millilitres of oxygen per litre of water. Where as on the same water just before dusk the oxygen levels reached a height of 160% which is 14 to 15 millilitres of oxygen per litre of water.(super saturated), this happens when plants are producing more oxygen than can diffuse from the surface of the water. Now for a carp to have a healthy efficient digestion system it needs around the 5 millilitres of oxygen per litre of water.
    We as terrestrial animals do not have to think about oxygen before we eat food, but fish do and will react accordingly. Their primary instinct is to survive and this instinct takes over the priority for feeding. These vegetated area's serve a multitude of advantages for carp during daylight hours. Firstly as talked about already the oxygen levels are quite high, they also give carp the much needed cover they need away from predator's eyes and these area's are usually rich in food, such as fresh water snails and invertebrates.
    Aquatic plants are split up into three categories.
    Marginal or Emergent Weeds
    Rushes, reeds and sedges grow in shallow water in the margins.
    Floating Plants
    These form dense, unsightly mats across the whole water surface. Water Lilies, Duckweed, Water Fern, Floating Penny Wort and Broad Leaved Pond Weed.
    Submerged Plants (oxygenating plants)
    These plants mostly grow under water with usually only the flowering shoots appearing above the surface. Canadian Pondweed, Nuttall's Pondweed, Curly Water Weed and Water Milfoil.
    And it is these plants I would like to concentrate on as they are the oxygenating plants.

    The most common aquatic plant we are most familiar with is, is the non native Canadian Pond Weed (Elodea Canadensis). Canadian Pond weed is classed as Submerged Oxygenating Plant. It grows indefinitely at the stem tips and single specimens may reach lengths of 3 metres or more. The leaves are bright green, translucent, oblong 6 – 17 mm long and 1 – 4mm broad, borne in whorls of three (rarely two and four) round the stem. It lives entirely underwater, the only exception being the small white or pale purple flowers which float at the surface and are attached to the plant by delicate stalks. This plant, along with others host a whole array of invertebrates and fresh water snails. This is why carp find vegetated area's so appealing during day light hours. You have higher levels of oxygen, cover and food. It only stands to reason why carp like these area's so much. But come dusk the carp will tend to move off, searching out more comfortable, oxygen richer water. Obviously there are exceptions to the rule, atmospheric pressure, angling pressure, wind direction and temperature. I have witnessed many times, carp sat absolutely still in weed for hours on end, only to see the fish fade with the darkness of night. Remember the switch over from the weed producing oxygen to producing carbon dioxide will be a gradual decline as the light fades, it doesn't just switch over. In my opinion fish will either hang around until the oxygen levels do drop to such a significant rate they feel uncomfortable and move off, or they will move when the light has faded as they will feel safer doing so, especially if there is a lot of angling pressure present. It is also worth a mention that, this is why you should never sack a fish up over night anywhere near any weed.
     
    Temperature and Atmospheric Pressure
     
    A carps metabolism and digestion are directly affected by temperature more so than atmospheric pressure. Day to day fluctuations won't bother carp to much, but prolonged spells of weather will, as it usually takes a few days for the water temperature to change. Colder weather does create higher D,O levels but anything below 7 degrees in temperature will slow a carps metabolism and therefore affect the digestive system. The enzymes in a carps gut break down the food through a process called chemical reaction. These enzymes do have an optimum temperature at which they work efficiently. The temperature is thought to be around 18 – 25 degrees, which is also the temperature that is the optimum growth rate for a carp. I could go on and on as there are many different enzymes for each breaking down process, but I won't baffle anyone with science. Basically if the enzymes are working at their peak, they are breaking down food quickly, lifting the metabolism rate, further lifting the hunger rate of a carp. The same can also be said for when the weather is to hot. The hotter the weather the lower the D,O concentrations, especially when it is very hot and there is no wind. Wind itself can increase D,O levels, as the waves create more surface area, more diffusion can occur. It is thought that atmospheric pressure affects carp by pushing them into different water columns. It is said the higher the pressure the lower you will find carp. I have read a few articles that suggest carp will feed best under 1000mb. Personally speaking I have found no scientific evidence to support this, other than prolonged spells of change may cause a change in behaviour. In fact many have documented that day to day fluctuations of atmospheric pressure has very little impact on fish at all.
  17. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from AST 30 in Leadcore   
    Hi everyone
    Recently i have been spending a lot of my time trying to disprove the danger theory regarding leadcore, yes leadcore, i hear a lot of you shriek NO.
    Whether we like it or not, anglers are going to use it, full stop. Due to its press in the media, new anglers especially are going to see their idols catching fish on a regular basis and want to get on to leadcore with realising the danger it can pose. I myself have used it for years, i absolutely loved the stuff it meant i could disquise my rig as good as could, i could fish next to snags and weed without the fear of getting cut off. But recently i read a thread that pointed out (among other issue,s) because of the abrasive nature of leadcore it could possibly cause damage to the fish. This did indeed started me thinking about the usage of leadcore and to be honest i raged war on everybody who strongly advised against its use.
    There are a few problems with leadcore so i will address them one by one.
     
    Firstly
    Leadcore twisting and kinking on the cast, therefore stoping any beads or swivels attached to a hooklink from coming off the leadcore should your rig snap off.
    I did play around with this for ages and the best way to stop this happening was to take out the lead inner, now im not saying this stopped the problem 100% but it did greatly reduce this happening on the cast.
     
    Secondly
    The lead inner sometimes after a bit of use can penetrate through the outer wall of leadcore causing the problem stated above. As before by taking out the inner core you can reduce this happening.
     
    Thirdly
    Bits of weed and debri getting caught in the spliced loops of leadcore, thus stoping any rig from coming off should you suffer a snap off.
    Tie the leadcore to the swivel or lead using a 4 or 5 turn grinner knot and to connect the mainline at the top, pull the mainline through the leadcore and out of the side and tie a 4 to 5 turn grinner knot on the outside of the leedcore, i for one have never trusted loops and when i did i purchased some already tied and they came undone, thankfully the lead end and not the mainline end.
     
    Fourthly
    This is the one i really struggled with, the abrasive nature of leadcore, meaning it can damage fish. This one i played round with smothering the outer core with tungsten putty, plastercine and all manner of substances to try and get the outer core just a bit smoother. I cannot get this outer core to a sufficant enough smoothness to guarantee it not damaging the fish. And believe me i have tested and tried for a long time now.
     
    In conclusion i know there are probably a lot more aspects about leadcore which i have missed but these have been the ones i see commonly brought up in threads concerning leadcore safety.
    And for this reason i will not be using leadcore and would advise unless you absolutely need to use it then dont.
     
    Many thanks for reading
    Gary
     
    PS i suspect one of the moderators or administrators will probably put this somewhere else but i just thought i was worth mentioning on a fresh thread
  18. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from fudgecat in Carp Care For Beginners   
    Carp care is one of those aspects of carp fishing that should be taken seriously as we all have a responsibility to look after the quarry we fish for, especially the bigger species like Carp, Pike, Catfish, Sturgeon and Zander.
    I still to this day see fishermen using inadequate gear for the job, and regularly see anglers using nets that are to small for the species they are fishing for. Sometimes being dragged up the bank and then set on to hard ground, without any consideration for the fish what so ever.
    So I am setting out to cover some of the essentials that you should have before you even think about going fishing.
     
    First and foremost I would like to cover Landing Nets, it is your responsibility to ensure you have a landing net that is big enough for the job. At the very least you should be using a 36 inch net, here I have a 42 inch net, that is more than capable of handling bigger carp.

    If you are Sturgeon or Catfishing you might want to consider using a 50 inch net.
    Now I usually try to unhook the fish in the net even before I think of lifting the fish before an Unhooking Mat. If I can not unhook the fish I will careful run my hand under the fish to make sure all of the fins are facing towards the back of the fish. If the fins are left sticking out from the fish you are running the risk of getting them caught in the net and possibly breaking the fins. Take hold of the net at the spreader block with one hand and the front of the net with the other and gently lift the fish up and out of the water. Making sure the fins are all facing toward the back of the fish, and gently lower down on to your unhooking mat.
    That leads me nicely on to unhooking mats, there is no excuse these days, you can buy unhooking mats in various sizes nowadays for very little money. It is not acceptable to be just using a towel, especially with the bigger species. Always make sure that your mat is wet, you don't want to be putting a large fish down on to a dry mat, this can take away some of the fishes protective mucus.

    You should always have a bucket to hand full of lake water, to pour over the fish while it is laying on the mat. This is the one I use, its really a expander bait bucket, but it holds a lot of water and is easy to fold up and pack away into my rod quiver. You must keep this fish wet at all times. If this fish starts to flap around while on the mat, you can just simply cover its head with either part of the unhooking mat or just place your hand gently over the eye, until the fish calms down. The next items I would like to run through are the unhooking tools. These are the two tools I use for removing hooks.

    I use these tools as they give me better purchase when unhooking fish. The long nose pliers are for unhooking the fish and the cutters are for cutting through the hooks. So much damage is done to fishes mouths through anglers, and all you have to do is just use a bit of common sense, if the hook has gone all the way through the mouth of the fish then just cut the hook in half. Remember your priority is to fishes welfare, hooks are a few pence each.

    The bottle in the picture is fish antiseptic, this should be used if the fish has either spawning damage to scales, any cuts or grazes and should be used on the wound the hook has caused. In all honesty hook holes usually heal themselves, but I certainly doesn't hurt to put some on just in case. If I saw a scale missing or any cuts and grazes to a fish I would squeeze some of the antiseptic on to the area and gently rub into the wound. As for mouth damage I just find it easier to use these cotton buds. Just squeeze a little antiseptic on to the cotton bud and treat the area, inside and out if necessary.
    If you are not weighing the fish then, again, make sure all of the fins are facing towards the tail end of the fish and return to the water in your landing net. Do not pick up the fish to return as the fish may flap around causing you to drop the fish on to the ground. Whilst the fish is in the water take hold of the tail and gently hold the fish in the upright position until the fish either kicks or feels strong enough to release. Do not just put the fish back into the water and hope for the best.
    None of these tools have to be expensive, but we all have a duty to care for the fish we catch for future generations to come.
    That's it for now, that is the essential kit guide for the newcomer to the sport, if you are a little unsure of what you are doing try to go with someone who is more experienced and let them show you how to look after our fish.
    It is also worth a mention that if dipping tanks are supplied, it is your responsibility to use these tanks and dip all of your carp care gear.
    When you get all of your gear home you should wash it all down with clean water and leave out in the sun to dry as the UV rays will kill most of the parasites, associated with harming fish.
    These days the carp care gear isn't expensive and is often over looked by a lot of anglers. Before you rush out to buy your first rod and reel you must take into consideration the fish you are angling for, and purchase some of these items to protect the fish for future generations.
     
    Next time i will move on to weighing and handling fish, until then, be lucky
  19. Like
    garysj01 got a reaction from redkite in Carp Care For Beginners   
    Carp care is one of those aspects of carp fishing that should be taken seriously as we all have a responsibility to look after the quarry we fish for, especially the bigger species like Carp, Pike, Catfish, Sturgeon and Zander.
    I still to this day see fishermen using inadequate gear for the job, and regularly see anglers using nets that are to small for the species they are fishing for. Sometimes being dragged up the bank and then set on to hard ground, without any consideration for the fish what so ever.
    So I am setting out to cover some of the essentials that you should have before you even think about going fishing.
     
    First and foremost I would like to cover Landing Nets, it is your responsibility to ensure you have a landing net that is big enough for the job. At the very least you should be using a 36 inch net, here I have a 42 inch net, that is more than capable of handling bigger carp.

    If you are Sturgeon or Catfishing you might want to consider using a 50 inch net.
    Now I usually try to unhook the fish in the net even before I think of lifting the fish before an Unhooking Mat. If I can not unhook the fish I will careful run my hand under the fish to make sure all of the fins are facing towards the back of the fish. If the fins are left sticking out from the fish you are running the risk of getting them caught in the net and possibly breaking the fins. Take hold of the net at the spreader block with one hand and the front of the net with the other and gently lift the fish up and out of the water. Making sure the fins are all facing toward the back of the fish, and gently lower down on to your unhooking mat.
    That leads me nicely on to unhooking mats, there is no excuse these days, you can buy unhooking mats in various sizes nowadays for very little money. It is not acceptable to be just using a towel, especially with the bigger species. Always make sure that your mat is wet, you don't want to be putting a large fish down on to a dry mat, this can take away some of the fishes protective mucus.

    You should always have a bucket to hand full of lake water, to pour over the fish while it is laying on the mat. This is the one I use, its really a expander bait bucket, but it holds a lot of water and is easy to fold up and pack away into my rod quiver. You must keep this fish wet at all times. If this fish starts to flap around while on the mat, you can just simply cover its head with either part of the unhooking mat or just place your hand gently over the eye, until the fish calms down. The next items I would like to run through are the unhooking tools. These are the two tools I use for removing hooks.

    I use these tools as they give me better purchase when unhooking fish. The long nose pliers are for unhooking the fish and the cutters are for cutting through the hooks. So much damage is done to fishes mouths through anglers, and all you have to do is just use a bit of common sense, if the hook has gone all the way through the mouth of the fish then just cut the hook in half. Remember your priority is to fishes welfare, hooks are a few pence each.

    The bottle in the picture is fish antiseptic, this should be used if the fish has either spawning damage to scales, any cuts or grazes and should be used on the wound the hook has caused. In all honesty hook holes usually heal themselves, but I certainly doesn't hurt to put some on just in case. If I saw a scale missing or any cuts and grazes to a fish I would squeeze some of the antiseptic on to the area and gently rub into the wound. As for mouth damage I just find it easier to use these cotton buds. Just squeeze a little antiseptic on to the cotton bud and treat the area, inside and out if necessary.
    If you are not weighing the fish then, again, make sure all of the fins are facing towards the tail end of the fish and return to the water in your landing net. Do not pick up the fish to return as the fish may flap around causing you to drop the fish on to the ground. Whilst the fish is in the water take hold of the tail and gently hold the fish in the upright position until the fish either kicks or feels strong enough to release. Do not just put the fish back into the water and hope for the best.
    None of these tools have to be expensive, but we all have a duty to care for the fish we catch for future generations to come.
    That's it for now, that is the essential kit guide for the newcomer to the sport, if you are a little unsure of what you are doing try to go with someone who is more experienced and let them show you how to look after our fish.
    It is also worth a mention that if dipping tanks are supplied, it is your responsibility to use these tanks and dip all of your carp care gear.
    When you get all of your gear home you should wash it all down with clean water and leave out in the sun to dry as the UV rays will kill most of the parasites, associated with harming fish.
    These days the carp care gear isn't expensive and is often over looked by a lot of anglers. Before you rush out to buy your first rod and reel you must take into consideration the fish you are angling for, and purchase some of these items to protect the fish for future generations.
     
    Next time i will move on to weighing and handling fish, until then, be lucky
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