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SlowSteve

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About SlowSteve

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  1. Over the last couple of weeks, since I rejoined this forum, I have spent some time reading the carp magazines and looking at Youtube to catch up with all the latest fashions in "proper carping". I will say right now I'm not a "proper carper" - I catch carp, and I generally do OK, but I am not trendy or cool. If I was a new carper, I would see everything written down, and how the same idea's are apprearing in different magazines and think that these were "right" and then go and do them - and so I would end up spending a lot more money and catching a lot less fish. a LOT less fish. Lots and
  2. Nah - i think the second. everyone will have their own choice for MOST important. Mine is a bit controversial so I'll not pollute the topic. Hey - congratulations by the way on the super moderator-ship. Many years ago I was part of this board and I remember talking to you when you had 50 posts. Steve
  3. For the same price you could get these: https://www.sunglasses-shop.co.uk/cocoons/slim-line/black-c402c-polarized/42700.aspx?ref=googleshoppinguk&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Cocoons&utm_content=42700&gclid=CKHAtKON3cYCFYIewwodjL4DWg&gclsrc=aw.ds Better for muddy waters and more protection from un-polarised light: Although, if you were only fishing clear rivers, they may be a good bet. The absolutely key thing is that having SOME form of polariser is better than nothing - what ever you get, it will improve your fishing, Steve
  4. For the way that I fish for carp, Polarisers are in my Top 5 most important items list. However, when I was at the tackle shop yesterday I tried on some branded polarisers - fox and diawa I think, and they were just junk and people were actually buying them - and the WRONG colours. It just felt like people were wasting their money. So, I thought I would put a bit of a post up on them, and some reviews of what I've used. Why are they so awesome? There is never a point where I am fishing and NOT wearing polarisers. I where them when ever I am at the lake, even at night. Why? They prot
  5. For me, the key thing with floater fishing is to get enough interest. If I'm on a lake with plenty of swims free, I'll usually feed 4 or more swims. And I'm focusing on getting competition going. Initially I will feed each swim with a few large handfuls of floaters and then sit back and wait for a while. When you have carp in one or more swims, let the loose feed get taken up and then keep the fish feeding on a "little and often" basis - a few baits every thirty seconds or so. When you have a boil of fish in the swim, and they are competing against each other, then it's time for your bait
  6. Hmm.... Not a vast amount of the fishing we do would be considered "stalking" - i.e creeping around dropping baits in a margin on an active fishes nose. The average session, if we're after carp, would be getting to the lake, 15-30 minutes working out how the lake "works" - directions, sunshine, wind, tilt, bottom make up, etc etc, coming up with a plan of where the fish are likely to be, where they will likely move over the next few hours and planning a set of moves around the lake. Then tackle up and get into the first swim, Keep eyeballing the lake and be willing to move away from th
  7. Ah - I think I didn't explain well. I have been at a lake with some of these kids - 14, 15 and 16 years old, and they have caught, perhaps 5 or 6 decent fish (for the lake). However, they point to the "carp guy" in his bivvy who has caught no fish, or perhaps 1 fish, in the same period, and they think that he's doing it "properly" so, in some way, their fish don't count. Steve
  8. Here is my challenge though. I have kids, good kids, who feel that they CAN'T go fishing for carp because it won't be, in some way, "proper" carp fishing, as they don't have all the gear. They aren't making the mistakes as they're put off by not having the gear to fish "properly". Equally, when they get the gear, they aren't trying other methods because they see the static approach as the "best" approach, so won't deviate from it as thats what they see the likes of Danny Fairbrass and people on YouTube doing. Lets be clear - I am not in any way knocking people with all the gear - to e
  9. Hello all. I have a feeling this may be a "light the blue touch paper" type question, but I'm going to ask it anyway as I genuinely want to know the answer. A "typical" carp fishing session - as seen in the magazines etc - involves multiple rods, bivvys, buzzers, camping etc - all the usual stuff. From my own experience, I have found a highly mobile approach gives me a significantly higher catch rate - on one syndicate I fish I think I am catching about 12x faster than the others who fish static, and on another I am comfortable I am catching at least 10x faster .... I.e. I am catc
  10. Use a 1cm piece of elastic band, or a float rubber. Does exactly the same job. I would suggest you increase the number of worms - there is very little that can't consume 2 worms - a 1lb roach and a 1/2lb perch will both easily get through them. If you're looking to specifically target big fish, consider using at least 4 large worms. Steve
  11. If you want the lead to actually stay fixed, then just used a breakaway lead like the sea fishing guys do. Very useful on occasion. I use then with CD rigs for eel fishing when the lead absolutely can't move. Steve
  12. Two methods that work for me - depending on fish size and twitchiness. Either use a Size 4, or maybe a size 2, large hook - I use the Raptor T-6, and hook directly. Use something like a fake maggot if you're using a barbless hook. If you're fishing more twitchy fish, I prefer something like a size 8 Super Specimen fishing on a hair. The Korum QuikStop widgets are fantastic for hair rigging worms - pass them straight through the saddle. Use a long hair, and use a good ball of worms - 4,5 or 6 worms. Snap the tails off each one. You are aiming for something like a golf ball sized bait. Y
  13. Wow.... This blew up. Apologies for not posting - I was hijacked with a weekend of jobs from Mrs Steve. I was kind of hoping to get the breakdowns of the two papers in first, but meh - I will add them later. Here's the key thing I would point out though - I have no dog in this fight. There was commentary on another thread that some of the papers published in this space are complex to read. I read a lot of papers for my professional life, and have a background of biology and chemistry, and I know how carp fishing works so I thought I would write them up. Being absolutely open, my main ho
  14. OK. I'll put my opinion in, but be warned - it will be thought of as wrong by pretty much everyone on here. Rods: Don't get two rods. Get one rod. Don't get a "carp rod" - get an Avon rod instead. I use a 1.75lb for pretty much all carp fishing. An Avon rod has a progressive action, so I can easily cast 3 or 4 AAA's 40+ vards, I can haul 20lb+ fish out of weeds, and when the fish goes crazy at the net, the rod just nods away.... no lost fish. Also, with that rod, you have a rod which will do for pretty much ANY specimin fishing apart from pike ( because of huge weights to cast) and cats
  15. if your ever looking for specific chemicals always do a search for "<chemical name> data sheet" to get a breakdown. datasheets are regulated and are always correct here is piperine: http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9926579
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