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The lake i am going to fish is full of roach rudd etc up to about the 2lb mark. The carp are running well into doulbe figures and been told could be a couple of 30's really wary fish though was thinking scaleing down to an 8lb fluro line and size10 hook with a couple of tiger nuts on the hair? Is this to light or is it ok with clutch set right

cheers lads

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Difficult question to answer if we can't see your lake.

 

Fishing in a hole in the ground, with no snags, features or weed, you could scale down to as low as you wanted.

Fishing a snag infested lake full of swan muscles, weed, islands, reeds etc you would need to keep the breaking strain up.

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Dont forget that at carpbell's lake someone caught a 30+lber on 6lb line and a 16 hook :) :smile: :) .) :) :smile: .) :)

Don't forget that Ritchie Macdonald landed Yateley's Basil at 40lb+ on 6lb line.

 

As said, if the lake is clear then 8lb line is fine, although personally (my preference) I would avoid fluorocarbon in lighter strains as it can have a very bad knot strength, and not as much stretch as monofilament (normal nylon mainline).

 

Also if you are not fishing specifically for carp then I may be able to see the point in using a lighter mainline for the rudd and roach etc, but being as you are aiming for the carp then 6-8lb line in a snag free lake would be good, especially if you are using a lighter rod, 1.5lb, 2lb or maybe 2.5lb test curve, or even a lighter ledger rod.

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I never see much reason to use anything other than mono. Remember Fluro doesn't cast very well either. I usually base my line on if anything will cut me off, my current water has very raised gravel bars with steep ledges that can be a nightmare if you don't use strong line. For my fishing 15lb GR60 covers most scenarios, but I am a big fan of Korda subline. 

 

By the sounds of things 10lb line should be more than adequate. Although I would question your reasons for flurocarban, there are plenty of good sinking mono's on the market, casts better, more stretch and the majority have better knot strength than fluro.

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I'll rephrase that....

 

After using fluro for ages, I can never class any mono as sinking. At best, they mildly flutter down, and continue to sink for the next 24hours. Fluro, straight hard to the floor. If fishing running rigs and slack mines, A heavy fluro has much better hooking potential than mono.

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