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salokcinnodrog

A Rig Guide Thread, including Knotless Knot

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This Thread is a Guide to the Knotless Knot and Basic Rigs

 

Here is the Knotless Knot as used for many basic Rigs, also a set up that can be used to create a pop-up rig.

 

 

It is as simple as attaching a hook with a knotless knot, and in many or even most cases, simple is best. There are sometimes when a rig needs to be slightly upgraded and by adding a Line Aligner then you can create a more aggresive hooking angle

 

These simple rigs can be adapted for Braids, Nylon, fluorocarbons and Coated Braids, and used for bottom baits or pop-up rigs.

 
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The next rig is a line aligned stiff rig with a hair made from soft braid.

I have used Gardner Trick link in 20lb as the hooklink material. Being a stiff rig it really does prevent tangles, and can be used for long distance casting with no worries. 

To get it as straight as I have I have steamed the hooklink as I shrunk the tubing.

I find this rig will lay itself flat and straight, and on the pick-up you want the fish to hook itself. 

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On a similar vein to the first rig pictured is a 15lb fluorocarbon hooklink with a line aligner (not yet shrunk over the kettle), the hook is knotless knotted, still with a continuous hair made from the fluoro, with the second pic being the full rig

 

The fluorocarbon hooklink theory is that it can't be seen on the lakebed, not as stiff as the stiff link above, but slightly stiffer than mono

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I have mentioned braided rigs, and to tie a basic braid rig is as simple as going exactly the same as the knotless knotted rig shown above, or you can be slightly more advanced.

 

This braided rig is tied on Kryston Merlin, the swivel knot is covered with shrink tubing, just to be sure the hooklink kicks away, reducing tangles. The hook is tied on with a Grinner knot, the hair is constructed from whipping thread, tied to the eye of the hook, protected with the shrink tube and I have made it with a line aligner. The shrink tube has the hooklink material coming out of the front at the top to create that line aligner.

The hair is also leaving the hook opposite the barb, and a tiny piece of shrink tube holds it there.

 

In the second pic, it is a plain basic braided rig, tied with the knotless knot, simple and easy to tie, and it does work

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Any standard rig can be used for a pop-up rig, a standard knotless knot rig is easy to convert, but a little thought can give better hookholds.

For this pop-up rig I have used Snakebite as the coated braid, but with a short stripped section near the hook. The hook is tied on with a Uni knot, and silicon tubing to hold the hook up at the right angle. Because of my personal problems with crayfish I can't use putty, so a match anglers olivette is held in place with that tubing, and another short length at the other end of olivette.

The sliding ring on the shank is prevented from going past the bend by a rig bead, and the pop-up is tied on to the rig ring. I know this rig works, I have been using it for a lot of years, it has produced double figure tench :!: as well as carp to big weights from numerous waters.

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The D Rig is probably one of the most adaptable rigs and is suitable for pop-ups, snowman and bottom baits. It is also pretty much the basis for the Chod rig.

Again, you are using a standard knotless knot, but using the tag end to put the rig ring on, and putting the tag back through the eye of the hook, and lighter blobbing it.

I have tied one on Fluorocarbon, just as a demonstration, but it can be tied on mono, coated braid, even plain braid or as part of a Combi-rig when attached to a stiffer boom section. The bait is attached to a rig ring.

As a pop-up rig, tie a stop knot with power gum and mould putty around it at the height you want the bait popped up, use an match anglers olivette, or pop-up depth charge, or with a combi-rig, mould the putty around the knot join.

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