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cyborx

interesting take on advice giving

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heya!! i know i have posted about a local fishery to me once or twice but i have noticed a trend lately in their F/B posts, they have an EXPERT, and he dispenses WORDS OF WISDOM :o  :o

now i know this is not the norm but does anyone out there think that it should catch on??

here is a copy of the latest offering by the 'CARP GURU', oh and before you start, IT AINT ME :lol::lol:

 

https://www.facebook.com/bellsmillfishery

Last week I posted how temperatures can influence where the fish are likely to be during the colder months.This week I'm continuing this theme but looking at air pressure and how this can effect our fishing.The main thing about air pressure is that it affects the amount of oxygen in the water which is an important point when targeting carp (or any fish for that matter) because all fish need oxygen to function properly.Irrespective of the pressure fish, plants and other organisms in a lake still continue to use oxygen in order to survive but when that oxygen isn't being replaced the fish especially, become sluggish and less energetic.In periods of high pressure, which are generally 1010mb or higher the weather is typically warmer and drier so the oxygen being used doesn’t get replaced and as a result the carp become less responsive because of the lower oxygen levels.Conversely when the pressure is below a 1000mb and considered as low you will often find that it rains and the wind increases, which helps to drive up the oxygen levels in the water and make the fish become more active.That's why it’s worth keeping an eye on the pressure because if it drops below a 1000mb then there's a greater chance that the carp will feed and you will catch...You might want to take your waterproofs though because the chances are its going to rain or its already raining !The other thing to consider is that the air pressure can also affect the depth at which the carp will be. I remember watching a video where Dave Lane commented that in high pressure carp tend to be higher up in the water and that was why he was fishing zigs (and catching).This is an interesting point because clearly by adapting our tactics to suit the situation means we increase the chances of catching.This is all, of course based on theory and you have to bear in mind that these conditions are all inter-related so some or all of them can affect the situation at different times but no matter what the conditions it still needs to be stable a few days.Next time you're out and blanking consider these factors and try to find the right method to suit the situation you are faced with...you never know it might work !

Tight lines TCG

Discuss :wink:

 
 
 

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21 hours ago, carpmachine said:

Sounds like a sensible bloke to me, all basic stuff but useful to beginners.

 

20 hours ago, Big Common said:

Bit of education can't do any harm.

was thinking that it would be a good thing if fisheries (especially now in the days of social media) did this as a matter of course, it not only makes some good advice available for those coming up in the sport it also could be used for pointing out the pitfalls or even health hazards for anglers and fish alike.

this bloke does a weekly post and gives some really good tips, as said above, this one gives some basic advice but it is stuff that kids (and some adults) need to have in their arsenal.

pity there aren't more talented anglers willing to give up a little time to do this sort of thing for their local commie.

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Gentlemen, another reminder please, NO SWEARING, it is a bannable offence.

 

Advice is useful, it can impart extra knowledge to you, should you take it.:wink:

I will say this though, people often fail to follow advice, for a number of reasons; it just seems wrong, or it may be 'we' want to try our own things. I listen to advice frequently, then often go against it, personal life and fishing. Fishing wise it is because i want to try something different, personal life, because i'm strong willed and obstinate, but maybe the two do mix...

 

If its advice on a particular lake its handy, but advice from others who don't know the full situation can be useful or not. It may be a simple answer that we had never thought of, or equally it can be something more drastic.

The best advice I can ever give from fishing is probably the same as most; find the fish. That can be from walking and looking, studying the lake with bino's, or even from trying various areas.

The next bit is get your bait to the fish in a way they will accept it, which is a whole lot more difficult. Give them loads of freebies so they come in and accept your bait, or it could be put a single to them. That is where it gets more difficult!

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23 minutes ago, dayvid said:

I would like to suggest you post his postings here every week , we can all take something from advice new or old .

 

that may be a good idea dayvid, not much time atm but here is one that made me think,,

 

The Carp Guru.

Its coming up to that time of year when the temperatures will soon start to impact more on our quarry.

At the moment the water temperature is likely to be warmer than the air which means that the carp are more active in different parts of a lake but in the next few months, as the cold winds start to increase this will begin to cool the temperature of the water, particularly at the wind end of the lake.

Carp are cold blooded so they like to be in the warmest part of the lake. If the wind is cold and cooling the water then they will most likely be holding on the back of the wind because this area is likely to be warmer.

Autumn is when it therefore becomes increasingly important to check water temperature on a regular basis as this will help you to determine where the fish might be and how you need to fish for them.

In winter the water temperature is likely to bottom out at its lowest of about 4 degrees (except when it freezes over!) so its worth checking both water and wind temperatures because if the air (wind) temperature is warmer than the water then the water at the end of the lake where the wind is blowing is likely to be warmer and so the carp could be on the end of the wind instead.

I know it sounds strange that the carp would be on the very end of a cold wind in winter but trust me they will more likely be where it is warmest so make sure you check the temperatures.

Try it and see if it makes a difference 🖒

Tight lines... #thecarpguru

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a tad more info from thecarpguru

POP ON A POP UP...

I am big fan of pop ups and particularly so this time of year so here's a few tips which will hopefully help improve your pop up fishing.

RIGS

There are loads of different rigs that can be used for fishing pop ups - the chod rig, multi rig, combi rig, stiff hinged rig, or a simple coated braid to name a few.

All of them will help you to fish over any detritus on the bottom due to the way in which the hook bait is suspended off the lakebed. Small amounts of debris like weed and leaf mulch can easily cover a standard boilie making it more difficult for the carp to find, but with a pop-up the rig will often sit on top of any debris making it more visual and effective.

My personal preference is a stiff hinged rig because it is probably the most versatile and provides an effective presentation.

Another advantage of fishing pop-ups is the anti tangle properties of the rig once it is in position on the lakebed. If you "get done" by a carp picking up the pop-up, which we all do then it is much less likely to tangle than a regular bottom bait and reset meaning you are fishing more effectively.

It’s very important to balance the size of your hook to the size of your pop-up. A 12mm boilie will be best suited to something like a size 8 hook and a 16mm pop-up more suited to a size 6.

Remember your rig could be out for a long time so before you cast out It's worth checking your rigs in the margin to make sure your hook bait is suspended in the water. If your pop-up is buoyant enough it will sit proudly.

The way you attach you pop-up can also affect buoyancy. If you pierce the skin of the boilie with a bait screw or to thread onto floss through then, over time, this will allow water in which will affect its buoyancy. You can tie a bait on for rigs in position for 24 hours and longer but the latter should be fine if they aren't out this long.

Adding weight to your rig may be necessary to counter-balance your pop-up rigs. This can be achieved with lead putty, split shot or even the wire from the inside of leadcore and its important to get this right. Ideally, as a general rule of thumb I set up my rig so that it takes around 3 to 5 seconds to settle in the margin.

Here's a tip... if everyone is critically balancing their pop ups then try over-weighting your rig so it sits much harder on the bottom especially if you're fishing over boilies because when it’s disturbed by fish moving in and around the swim the hook bait is more likely to react like the boilies that you’ve baited up with and its likely no one else (or very few people) are fishing like that !

RED OR YELLOW OR PINK OR WHITE...

Two trains of thought on this... "match the hatch" by using a pop up of similar colour to your freebies or fish a bright coloured pop up which stands out.

20 years ago I would have said match your pop ups to your freebies. Nowadays I will, more often than not fish a bright white, yellow or pink pop up with the latter being my favourite.

Why? Well if you match your baits to the freebies then potentially the carp will eat some or all of your free bait before picking up your pop up.. this can of course increase their confidence and make them less cautious when they come to pick up your pop up, however if you use a bright pop up over different coloured duller boilies then when the fish move in they are more likely to see it standing out and being inquisitive creatures they’re more likely to pick it up before too many of your freebies.

GIVE EM A BOOST!

You can also boost the attraction of your pop ups by drizzling them little and often with your chosen liquid flavour. Be careful not to add too much otherwise this will affect buoyancy and turn your pop ups into, at best wafters. This approach can be very effective when casting at showing fish or fishing a single at range when a little bit of extra attraction may help the carp find your hook bait.

Fishing pop ups is all about confidence and ringing the changes with rigs and pop up selection so keep these tips in mind and give them a go next time you're out on the bank.

Tight lines...thecarpguru

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The Carp Guru on that most important piece of tackle

Are you using the right hooks ?

By that I don't mean ones that are made by a certain company but the type, size and shape of the hook because they are all designed to do a certain job.

Correct hook selection can be the difference between success and failure so here's a few tips to help you decide which one to use.

SIZE MATTERS...

In a fishing situation, it really does!

The size of hook you select should always match the size of the bait you are using.

Hook sizes are determined by numbers and the larger the hook, the smaller the number, obvious to most I know but not if you've never fished before.

For general carp fishing purposes I would recommend using any size of hook between 4 & 10 depending on the type of bait I'm putting on the "hair" and the rig I'm using.

Here's a bit of history for you younger guys... The hair rig was actually invented by Len Middleton and Kevin Maddocks in the 70's when they used to side hook baits !They discovered that the hook caused a sensation on the carp's mouth that put them off taking the bait.

They originally used human hair to attach the bait to the hook and the hair rig was invented.

It's evolved over the years with the introduction of different hooklength materials so you don't see as many bald carp anglers on the bank nowadays!

So back to hook size and bait.

If I'm using a small popup, say 12mm then I'd opt for a size 8 or 10 hook because anything bigger is likely to impact on the mechanics of the rig. A heavy hook will sink a small popup whereas you can add weight if the popup is holding the rig up too high.

Having said that there may be times when you can get away with a larger hook when using a similar sized balanced bait (wafter) or a bottom bait for example, but remember the larger the hook, the heavier it is which means in this situation it is likely to affect your presentation and mechanics of the rig.

Ideally you want the hook to be "light" or neutral because then when a carp sucks in your bait it will fly up into their mouth quickly and take hold more easily.

A good general rule of thumb is to use size 8's and 10's for 10mm to 12mm baits or single grains of plastic corn, size 8's or 6's for 14mm to 15mm and size 4's for larger baits up to 20mm.

BARBED OR BARBLESS ?

Clearly you will need to check the rules of the fishery you are targeting BEFORE fishing but if you have the luxury of using either I would always opt for a barbed or micro barbed hook over a barbless when fishing for larger carp.

A barbless hook can be easily dislodged by hard fighting and crafty carp who have many tricks and methods for evading capture where as with a barbed hook it is more difficult for the fish to eject the hook once it has taken hold.

A lot of studies have also shown that in the case of bigger fish a barbed hook causes less damage to the mouth because it is more rigid and less likely to wobble about during the fight.

It goes without saying that you should always take care when unhooking a carp and try to get into the habit of applying some carp care to the hook hold.

HOOK PATTERNS

First thing to remember with hook patterns is that just because some "famous.. celebrity" carp angler uses them doesn’t mean they’re the right pattern for the job in hand.

There are several different characteristics to hooks, those with an out turned eye, in turned eye, curved shank, longshank, beaked and straight points, twisters, offsets, wide gape, snag hooks, the list goes on and on.. no wonder its so confusing!

To keep things simple I would recommrnd you stick to 4 basic patterns.. Wide Gapes, Curved Shanks, Stiff Hooks (Chod) and Longshanks. You might not need them all so here's a summary of why you might choose one or more.

THE WIDE GAPE

Wide gape hooks are my personal favourite carp hook pattern because it is a good all round hook that is reliable, versatile and strong!

The name refers to the large gape (the gap between the point and the shank) which improves the chances of the hook catching hold as the fish takes your hookbait.

Wide gapes are very versatile and can be used with bottom baits, wafters and pop-ups on a variety of rigs tied with coated, uncoated braid or mono.

Most wide gapes also have a beaked point which can help to prevent the hook from blunting when it comes into contact with hard substances, such as gravel on the lake bed. Be careful fishing them close to weed because they have a tendancy to catch it more than straight point hooks.

THE CURVED SHANK

As the name suggests these hooks, unlike most straight patterns have a curve in the shank.

They were originally designed for fly-fishing and after a number of years carp anglers realised their potential for use with certain carp rigs.

The main advantage is that the curved shank shape of the hook makes it harder for the fish to get rid of.

Certain rigs, such as the KD rig and D rig, rely on curved-shank hooks to make them more effective. They can be used with a variety of materials, including flurocarbon but I wouldn't use anything too stiff because you may find the curve becomes overly aggressive which will hinder hooking potential.

These hooks are generally better suited to fishing bottom baits or wafters in the sizes to match baits as previous discussed and can be fished over a variety of bottoms. When presented with a wafter they should ideally lie flat on the bottom.

THE STIFF (CHOD)

The key difference with this hook is that the eye is turned out which makes it perfect for use with stiffer materials when tying chod or stiff rigs.

The out turned eye helps with the mechanics of a rig tied with a stiff material like fluorocarbon and were traditionally found to be considerably stronger than rigs tied with an inturned-eyed hook when using this type of material.

The out turned eye also allows the material and, as a result the bait, to sit more naturally when shaped or curved and the hook is positioned aggressively enough to provide good hooking potential.

THE LONG SHANK

At first glance these hooks will be quite obvious because of the elegant, long and thin shank. They are like the legs of a catwalk model !

The longshank hooks are great for use with bottom baits like sweetcorn or tiger nuts if you are fishing with particles but I've also had some good results using them with smaller popups tied to a simple blow back rig.

I wouldn't advise using them without some sort of tubing or ring on the shank because your bait can get pushed back too far from the point of the hook meaning it might not take hold when the bait is sucked in.

They also have a straight point so are generally better for weedy or silty swims as they catch weed less easily. I would be cautious about using them over gravel because over time they can become easily blunted.

That brings me nicely onto sharpness...its important.

I'm not saying you need to meticulously sharpen every hook, even though that wouldn't be a bad discipline to get into, but make sure that it's sharp in the first place .. the nail test works for me.

Hook choice can be confusing and will no doubt lead to less effective rigs being used when you are fishing for carp so take the time to think about your situation and the bait you're using and match your hook to suit the circumstances.

Choosing the right hook will help to improve your chances of success!

Tight lines,,,,

The Carp Guru
 
 

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yet more advice for those of you that are easily confused :lol:

Choosing the right lead.....

Last week I saw an interesting question in one of the carp forums.. "which type of lead should I use on gravel?"

There are many different types of lead which have been designed for specific purposes and they all come in a variety of sizes. This week I run through a few of them and provide you with a few tips when one might be better than the other.

Tournament or Distance Leads - as the name suggests these are primarily used for long distance fishing and are generally a slim, long, torpedo shape to aid aerodynamics when casting at distance. In smaller sizes they can also be good for close in work because they cause very little disturbance on the surface when casting.These leads can slip from clean slopes like gravel so better suited to flatter, even bottoms.

Gripper Leads - the main purpose of these leads is to grip the bottom in strong flowing water. The shape of the lead is perfect for holding bottom with pronounced studs on each side. They're not very aerodynamic so you won`t want to use them if fishing at distance. They can be a useful alternative when leading about with a marker rod because the pronounced studs transmit the bumps and rattles up the braid when dragged along gravel etc.

Flat Pear Leads - these are a broad flattened pear shaped lead which provides stability on a variety of bottoms. Extremely versatile and can be used in most situations but most suitable for fishing on slopes or in silt when you don't want the lead to plug in too much. They are limited on distance but much better than the square or gripper type leads. Good for inside solid PVA bags with a short hooklength or when stalking the margins in clear water.

Round Pear Lead - similar to the flat pear but more evenly round that provides the classic "bomb" shape. Very versatile and a good all round lead. The round shape makes it a better casting lead than the flat pear but it will struggle on slopes and where the bottom is smoother such as silt. Classic choice for helicopter leaders fished with a Chod or Stiff hinge rig or for medium to long-range fishing on gravel-bottoms.

Square or Cube Leads - the cube shaped square lead is ideal for traditional bolt rigs because of its shape and density which places the maximum resistance on the carp when the rig is picked up. This lead is suitable for most bottoms and offers good stability but is restricted to short and medium range fishing.

In-Line Lead - these come in all the shapes and sizes as all the leads mentioned already with one significant difference. Instead of the lead being attached to the terminal set-up via a swivel or hoop link, the main line or leader passes through the inside of the lead. The resistance and bolt effect of this type of lead is instant making it ideal when fishing for wary carp that are moving very little distance as they feed. Not the best choice for soft lake beds where there is the potential for the lead to plug, as it will almost certainly take the rig with it and disrupt your presentation.

Riser Leads - a versatile lead that not many people use nowadays for some reason. Most of the younger anglers I speak to have never heard of them! They come in a variety of shapes and are a good choice of lead if fishing over weed. As the name suggests the lead rises on retrieval, which helps to avoid any snags and weeds on the way in. This is extremely useful if you overcast, retrieve, then steadily let the rig drop onto showing fish without making a noise. The lead is flattened so that it will rest gently on deep silt, soft weed and poor ground. It casts relatively poorly, but is deadly in the right situation.

tight lines...

The Carp Guru

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It might look good in pictures and be the fashionable thing to do at the moment but it's NOT SAFE for the fish so take note 1f44d.png👍

 
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Adam Penning Carp Angler

With regard to the sacking / retaining conversation, Simon Mansbridge covers it perfectly.....
There are several reasons. Firstly, the diurnal cycle of dissolved oxygen (DO) causes the highest oxygen levels late afternoon due to all aquatic plants (including algae) photosynthesising all day, pumping out dissolved oxygen into the water. Then as soon as it gets dark, photosynthesis stops and the processes reverses. They then take in oxygen and pump out carbon dioxide. Oxygen levels steadily reduce throughout the night reaching their lowest levels at dawn or just before. The shallowest water in lakes, around the margins is usually warmer than the deeper water further out. And the warmer the water, the less oxygen it can carry to start with. The time period that people often want to retain fish is from sometime in the night until just after dawn. The location of the retainer is always near the edge of the lake. This means the location is in a low oxygen area to start with. Then the retaining time coincides almost exactly with the worst possible time of the lowest oxygen levels during the whole 24 hour cycle. Carp exposed to low dissolved oxygen firstly become stressed. If the DO levels fall below about 2.5mg/l then it's fatal. The DO in the edge, especially if algae is present, can easily fall to around 4mg/l at dawn and up to around 14mg/l late in the day if its sunny. The margin for safety is very small in many cases. The stress caused, has a lasting effect. The efficiency of the immune system is reduced considerably and this can last for days or even weeks after the capture. With a reduced immune system, the fish is much more open to diseases, infections, ulcers and other health problems. Ulcers are very often associated with stress. Ultimately, stress is the number one killer of fish. When a carp dies, often the death is days or weeks after the event that caused it. So people are blissfully unaware of what they have done in many cases. And, the time it takes for the carp to return to normal behavior is significantly increased if they are retained for anything more than a few minutes. Also, retaining them in a sling or a sack has more chance of removing dangerous amounts of mucus. The mucus is the fishes barrier against infection and the more that is rubbed off, the more exposed the fish becomes to infections, parasites, etc.... And all this just for a photo!?
Anyone who is prepared to risk all these things for the sake of a photo, that will be looked at a few times and then filed away, really shouldn't be angling. Is the photo important enough to risk damage and stress to the carp?
The correct procedure should be to retain for a few minutes maximum while the scales are set. Then out of the water and onto the scales and straight back again. Then a few photos in the water and an immediate release. If the fish misbehaves then so be it, accept that not every photo will be perfect - The carp must always come first.
And night time photography in this day and age should be so easy with the modern cameras, lights, etc. There are no excuses'.

sound advice for all you budding anglers out there (and some who should know better) :wink:

The Carp Guru

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1 hour ago, ianain said:

Any idea where the details of these studies are?

I've never heard of them before and am somewhat cynical to such "study" claims of any sort.

not my words bud, but it do go along with my own thoughts on the matter.

i have also done my own observations and found it so, i would urge anyone to be cynical about ANY claims until you have spent a year or two checking things for yourself :lol:

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1 hour ago, cyborx said:

not my words bud

I realise that Jon, hence my phrasing:

Any idea where the details of these studies are?

There's definately some good stuff written by the Guru, but when I read "A lot of studies have also shown", and similar, my "bogus sign" alarm screams out foul.

1 hour ago, cyborx said:

 would urge anyone to be cynical about ANY claims until you have spent a year or two checking things for yourself :lol:

Fine advice, it'll just take a couple of years until I take it onboard :lol:

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I think I'm right in saying that the only reported death's due to sacking fish has absolutely nothing to do with DO levels & yet not even mentioned in the article. 

If your lake has low enough DO levels for retaining to be  high risk .... then there would be far more obvious signs than a stressed carp in retainer & the whole lake would be at risk.  

Not disagreeing with the stance on retaining , never done it for more than 5 mins myself.  But I do think the low DO levels in the margin is overplayed , especially as some fish can spend days & days sat in marginal snags chilling out the same area's that are apparently depleted of oxygen during certain times. 

I can see the logic behind it but like I said if the DO levels were that bad then action should already be under way to sort it out .

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