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TheKingTench

Using light leads

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2 minutes ago, spr1985 said:

b) tr using ova nuggets ¬†squished round the hook on the cast to prevent any tangles in flight ūüėČ

In these water temps you'll likely reel in the squished Pva foam. 

Learnt that lesson in winters past. I now, at all times,  put 2 quarter nuggets in pva mesh. Then hook through the gap. Twist and hook again. The point is then hidden between the foam and safe. It pops off very quick as it's just mesh. 

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4 minutes ago, greekskii said:

In these water temps you'll likely reel in the squished Pva foam. 

Learnt that lesson in winters past. I now, at all times,  put 2 quarter nuggets in pva mesh. Then hook through the gap. Twist and hook again. The point is then hidden between the foam and safe. It pops off very quick as it's just mesh. 

Didn’t suffer that issue any of my three sessions last wee, I guess area of the country and water temps play a huge part in that? Either way that’s two options for op to try 

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1 hour ago, TheKingTench said:

Well I blanked again, and also found out my rigs kept tangling. I use tubing, but mono hair rigs. Also an anti-tangle sleeve on the rig.

 

Very disappointing when you reel in and see that! 

A lot of tangles can occur as you pick up the rod. The lead is in the muddle of the rig, and you tighten the whole lot into a tangle.

As you have discovered, anti-tangle sleeves are also a tackle manufacturers money making idea, not necessarily a real problem solver.

Make sure you feather your cast, that usually helps prevent tangles.

 

I very rarely cast out without PVA of some form. Either a stringer or a small bag of bait. Casting PVA on your rigs also helps prevents tangles as well as getting a bit of bait near your hook. 

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3 minutes ago, salokcinnodrog said:

A lot of tangles can occur as you pick up the rod. The lead is in the muddle of the rig, and you tighten the whole lot into a tangle.

As you have discovered, anti-tangle sleeves are also a tackle manufacturers money making idea, not necessarily a real problem solver.

Make sure you feather your cast, that usually helps prevent tangles.

 

I very rarely cast out without PVA of some form. Either a stringer or a small bag of bait. Casting PVA on your rigs also helps prevents tangles as well as getting a bit of bait near your hook. 

Should I move over to using coated braid for my hooklinks? 

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10 hours ago, TheKingTench said:

Well I blanked again, and also found out my rigs kept tangling. I use tubing, but mono hair rigs. Also an anti-tangle sleeve on the rig.

Were you fishing tight lines??

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15 hours ago, TheKingTench said:

Should I move over to using coated braid for my hooklinks? 

Coated braid is not necessarily any stiffer, or more supple than mono.

 

You have to be sure to prevent tangles no matter what hooklink material you use. If that means expanded corn  nuggets ( they aren't PVA but have been misnamed) on the hook then use them. 

I do sometimes use them, even with a stringer or bag. My usual is simply to fold one in half around the hook, and lick and stick it together. 

 

I use whatever hooklink material I think is right. That may be nylon monofilament, fluorocarbon, braid, coated braid or even combi-rigs.

Remember that hooklink materials may need to be matched to the lakebed, a stiff boom sectioned combi-rig may sit up from the swivel in silt. Mono or fluorocarbon hooklinks may be 'iffy' on gravel, but perfect on silt.

The part with all fishing is putting the hookbait in place, untangled, to where the carp are at.

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21 minutes ago, salokcinnodrog said:

Coated braid is not necessarily any stiffer, or more supple than mono.

 

You have to be sure to prevent tangles no matter what hooklink material you use. If that means expanded corn  nuggets ( they aren't PVA but have been misnamed) on the hook then use them. 

I do sometimes use them, even with a stringer or bag. My usual is simply to fold one in half around the hook, and lick and stick it together. 

 

I use whatever hooklink material I think is right. That may be nylon monofilament, fluorocarbon, braid, coated braid or even combi-rigs.

Remember that hooklink materials may need to be matched to the lakebed, a stiff boom sectioned combi-rig may sit up from the swivel in silt. Mono or fluorocarbon hooklinks may be 'iffy' on gravel, but perfect on silt.

The part with all fishing is putting the hookbait in place, untangled, to where the carp are at.

I'm going to follow your exact advice and try some of that on the hookbait. Will be at the tackle shop monday.

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On 11/01/2018 at 01:35, TheKingTench said:

Hi,

I mostly only fish to around 50-60 yards max (at the moment), and I'm finding the 2oz leads to be a bit too much on my 2.75 TC rods. I find I have to do really half arsed casts, otherwise I miss my mark by some way. Could I step it down to 1oz? I fish a running rig, so lead weight should not be that important? As opposed to a bolt rig, I mean.

Thanks!

At the risk of being unpopular....

It sounds as if you may be trying to run before you can walk.

Your catch results are 99.9%  more due to location of fish than rigs and baits.  The tackle you have is more than capable of fishing up to 100yrds and landing very large fish.  Countless 40lb carp and larger catfish have been landed on 2.75tc rods etc.

A running rig needs to be kept simple.  Ditch the tubing.  You need a hooklink with hair rig, terminated via a swivel.  On the mainline, thread on a run ring, to which you attach your chosen lead (0.5 to 3oz ish depending on distance and lake bed). Then a rubber bead. Stick to a mono hooklink before worrying about how a coated braid could help or hinder.

This rig will catch you carp day in day out. Until your fishing situation changes.

Don't over complicate rigs.  Lead weight less underwater. No average fishing lead will stay put when a carp hooks itself orrrrr investigates a bait.  I've seen smaller car literally pick up a bait, attached to a 5oz ball lead and move it over a meter without flinching.

An average lead does not provide a "pivot" point. It simply doesn't.  It will move.  The lead moving, helps by preventing a carp from shaking a hook lose when hooked. The lead running up and down gives an element of slack/stretch if you will.

Stick to a simple rig and worry about finding some fish.  Even at a zoo like Drayton you would need to know where they are, especially at this time of year.  

If I'm teaching you to suck eggs or anything, tell me to do one. I'm not easily offended lol. I'd just rather help to fix a few basics before jumping in the deep end.

P.s setups in the garden or house will only serve to confuse the neighbors and scare the cat.  Rigs, leads and baits are completely different underwater I promise.

 

Phil

Edited by Phil

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3 minutes ago, Phil said:

 A running rig needs to be kept simple.  Ditch the tubing. 

I'll agree with that Phil. But it's a problem if you have a tubing rule on your water mate.

 

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Just now, smufter said:

I'll agree with that Phil. But it's a problem if you have a tubing rule on your water mate.

 

Fair point.  In that instance, just let the run ring, run over the tubing.

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11 minutes ago, Phil said:

At the risk of being unpopular....

It sounds as if you may be trying to run before you can walk.

Your catch results are 99.9%  more due to location of fish than rigs and baits.  The tackle you have is more than capable of fishing up to 100yrds and landing very large fish.  Countless 40lb carp and larger catfish have been landed on 2.75tc rods etc.

A running rig needs to be kept simple.  Ditch the tubing.  You need a hooklink with hair rig, terminated via a swivel.  On the mainline, thread on a run ring, to which you attach your chosen lead (0.5 to 3oz ish depending on distance and lake bed). Then a rubber bead. Stick to a mono hooklink before worrying about how a coated braid could help or hinder.

This rig will catch you carp day in day out. Until your fishing situation changes.

Don't over complicate rigs.  Lead weight less underwater. No average fishing lead will stay put when a carp hooks itself orrrrr investigates a bait.  I've seen smaller car literally pick up a bait, attached to a 5oz ball lead and move it over a meter without flinching.

An average lead does not provide a "pivot" point. It simply doesn't.  It will move.  The lead moving, helps by preventing a carp from shaking a hook lose when hooked. The lead running up and down gives an element of slack/stretch if you will.

Stick to a simple rig and worry about finding some fish.  Even at a zoo like Drayton you would need to know where they are, especially at this time of year.  

If I'm teaching you to suck eggs or anything, tell me to do one. I'm not easily offended lol. I'd just rather help to fix a few basics before jumping in the deep end.

P.s setups in the garden or house will only serve to confuse the neighbors and scare the cat.  Rigs, leads and baits are completely different underwater I promise.

 

Phil

I actually reall appreciate your help. I fishing a runs water ,but still yet nothing. Using a pellet and a piece of corn on the hair, and a Vitalin based groundbait. Only using smal lammounts though. Out again Wednesday.

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