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csm4130

hooking problems

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I have that problem too so don't feel like you're alone on this one. I usually fish sweet corn threaded on a hook with a slip rig like you use or I fish with a split shot or two about 6 inches from my hook. In general I find I have the best hook up to bite ratio if I hold my rod rather than resting on a stick. For example I went fishing with a couple of friends yesterday and we had our rods resting on sticks. We had four bites and missed all of them. My buddy had a light hit when it was resting on the stick but was able to pick it up. He had a light take again and was able to set the hook immediately and sucessfully landed his fish. After that we all held our rods and all of us caught fish. They were very subtle hits with only a couple inch run. We also had what are called "drop backs" which is when the carp eat your bait and run towards you, resulting in a sudden or gradual slackening of the line. In my experience you have to judge how the carp are biting that day and decide whether to hold your rod or rest it on something. I have had other days when they more or less pull the rod out of your holder every time and you can hook every one that way, it just depends. Also there are days when it is better to hook the second you feel anything (which for me is mostly the case) or to let them play with it a little bit and only set the hook on a big run after you feel the weight of the fish. I hope this helps!

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i know this may sound stupid, but are your hooks sharp enough?

 

after every cast you should run the point of the hook along your finger nail, and if it sticks straight away; then it is sharp enough and if it slides at all across your nail then change it.

 

i change my hook after every fish, just to make sure.

 

couple a sharp hook with a simple shortish hooklink and a bolt rig (2/3oz inline/leadclip) then you should start to catch fish again. Simple works

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i dont have it hair rigged im pretty new at this and i dotn under stand that rig. i just had a slip sinker so they can take the bait with out feeling anything unnatral.

 

OK.Here's what you do. Go to the UK rig tying forum.go to the search symbol at the top of the posts just above where it says"hair rig tying"and click it.When it opens type hair rig in the "Search for keywords" slot, click on the"forum"slot and scroll down to"UK rig tying",then hit search in the grey bar underneath.It will come up with 707 matches i think,Hit the first one,then when it opens hit the first one again titled general rigs.There you will find anything you need to know about rigs and how to tie them 'cos Nick knows what he is talking about.

I personally do not tie a little loop in the end of the hair but decide how long I want the hair then lay the free end,after I've threaded it through the eye, along the shank and wind it in under my turns round the shank.

Ok,Now you have your hair rig.Don't bother holding your rod,you will soon get fed up,and we don't want fed up anglers..Leave the line fairly slack and open the bail arm.(or you could easily lose a rod).

When It takes off,just close the bail arm and tighten, if the hair rig worked right the carp will have hooked itself and you will have enough to worry about landing it without having to worry about hooking it.

Hope this helps.Let us know how you get on.

R6 :D

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can i just reply to the guy above^^

 

it isnt the hair rig that hooks the fish, it is the weight and the fact that the carp bolts and gets scared after feeling some thing unnatural.

 

the hair rig, is just a way of presenting hard baits without covering the hook point.

Hi Tigernuttom

You are right of course,that is the principle of the bolt rig.

However,experience has shown me that providing your hooks are as sharp as they should be,just the prick of the hook as the carp ejects the bait,is enough to get it running and it is unlikely to stop until you tighten and set the hook deep.Having said that,I do rig my gear so that the fish only goes a foot or so before getting the resistance of the weight,I prefer doing it that way rather than hurling great chunks of lead around the place,and believe me,I don't miss many.

Also I was trying to keep things simple for the lad to start with.

Cheers R6

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Yeh, thats fair enough :D

 

 

 

just reading that bit you posted (^) and noticed u said the fish could move a foot before feeling theweight of the lead? :shock:

 

at the moment im using inline leads and 3 to 4 inch hooklinks to nail the carp instantly.

 

Ok,I guess I was a bit loose with the description.What I have is a 4 to 6 inch hook length.On the main line I thread a small bead and then a three foot length of !/8" black rubber tubing.Then I thread on a small snap link and another bead. Now I can snap on whatever lead I like as long as it has an eye,I mostly use what they call "bass sinkers " here,usually 2 ozs..I can now regulate how far a fish can move before coming up tight by putting a stop on my main line above the bead and tubing,that can be from 0 to about a foot depending on how I feel and how the stock market is doing. The tubing of course is to prevent the line going under the fish's scales and ripping them off.

The point I,m making is that the whole set up is infinitely variable to cope with whatever is going on at the time,it's never good to get stuck in a rut.

 

Cheers R6 May your boilies never crumble.

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ah, thats basically what we would call a "shokka rig" ever here in england.

 

Well! Stap me vitals,is that a fact.I never heard of that one before,I must have been over here too long.

I must admit I thought you were pulling my leg at first so I Googled it and there it was. You live and learn.

R6 :D

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yeah, i believe Danny Fairbrass (of the underwater dvd's and MD of Korda) brought it back onto the scene after the tactic had somewhat dissapeared for 5-10 years.

 

quite alot of people are moving back to the running rigs and "shokka's" now as opposed to the semi-fixed "bolt rig" stlye setups that almost everyone used a year or so ago.

:)

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