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setting the clutch


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From an earlier post it seems I might have my clutch set too tight. Can someone explain the correct way to set your clutch? I always thought it should be set just below your breaking strain but seems that this could be causing some of my problems. How loose does everyone set theirs and how do they set it up? Do you do it while playing the fish or is there a trick to setting it roughly right before you cast out? cheers :?:?

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this is a hard one to answer, everyone probably sets them diferent and reels respond diferantly as well. as long as the fish can take line if it needs to but not to easily then it will be fine. you will get used to how your reels work and how to set the clutch as you get more experiance mate.

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I tend to set mine reasonably tight ( pulls off spool but not too easily ) unless snag fishing. Then when fish gets closer and approaching netting time, i loosen the clutch in case of last minute dashes.

That's a very loose explanation, you have to take into account test curve, line strength, fish size etc.

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I just make sure the fish can take line but im always ajusting it whilst playing the fish. Say if i fish is heading for a snag i tighten it up and hope for the best until the fish turns and then i slacken it off a bit. Also when i get it close in i make sure its that extra bit loose as thats where you can get alot of hook pulls if your not careful :D

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I set it whilst playing the fish. Slackened right off while waiting for a run then tightened up or slackened off if the situation dictates (fish makes a powerful run ect.) Only thing is, almost expect the fish to surge off when it see's the net so for the latter part of the fight, slacken off abit.

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Backwind :wink:

 

Hardly a productive comment considering what he originally asked :wink:

Yes, you can backwind whilst playing, but you still need the clutch set properly just in case of sudden runs and lunges. A bit of experience would have taught you that :wink:

 

benji5857 - if you are using big-pits without a pre-set drag setting such as on the newer Shimmy's etc., this won't be of much use. However, if you are using baitrunners/pre-set drag reels, then try tying the line to something solid (I use the washing line pole at home), then put the rod into it's fighting curve from about 5-10yds away. Adjust the clutch so it just about slips and lets out line when you are putting moderate to hard pressure on it. Works for me anyway :)

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I think it comes down to the situation I don't think a rule can be given for all scenarios, you may find you need to backwind as you may have your clutch set to tight and not the time to adjust! I normally set mine whilst playing the fish where it is pulling but not trying to storm off i will set the clutch so when I turn the reel the spool will spin, and if it goes for snags etc I will slowly put my hand on the spool as if feathering the cast to slowly stop the spool from spinning don't do this to fast though.

 

Think the best way is to play around and find what is comfortable for you :)

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Backwind :wink:

 

Hardly a productive comment considering what he originally asked :wink:

Yes, you can backwind whilst playing, but you still need the clutch set properly just in case of sudden runs and lunges. A bit of experience would have taught you that :wink:

 

benji5857 - if you are using big-pits without a pre-set drag setting such as on the newer Shimmy's etc., this won't be of much use. However, if you are using baitrunners/pre-set drag reels, then try tying the line to something solid (I use the washing line pole at home), then put the rod into it's fighting curve from about 5-10yds away. Adjust the clutch so it just about slips and lets out line when you are putting moderate to hard pressure on it. Works for me anyway :)

 

I never need to use the clutch, years of practise allow me to allways have backwind on and control it with my index finger. I prefer to have full control of the fish, Clutch isnt allways sensitive enough, and sometimes too sensitive depending on the situation.

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Thanks for all of your comments and tips. I probably should have explained the tackle I use. I am using Shim Bairunner XTEA's with 15lb mono. Most of your comments make sense and have given me a rough idea of what pressure I should allow before letting the clutch slip. Especially liked the tip about using your finger to slow down the spool if the fish charges for the snags which to be honest almost every single one seems to at the lake I fish at. I have to be careful though as there is a lot of weed on the bottom of the lake which is only about 5 feet deep and fish tend to head straight for it :shock:

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The best way if you want to make sure the fish doesn't come off through making a mistake yourself is to constantly adjust it during the fight. I set it quite loose so the clutch holds when i reel but any lunge from fish will yield line. Then i use my forefinger to increase or reduce drag to make the fish work. Its quicker to lift your finger than grab clutch and start twisting it. I'll adjust it just a few clicks looser when fish starts getting near net. Thats the danger time.

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One additional note:

If the fish is still far and there is enough line "working" then the clutch can be tighter because of the elasticity of line is helping to absorb the surges. But if it is close than I allways relieve clutch ane if needed I increase the breaking force with finger on the reel. It is important to know that higher the rod the more friction appears between line and the rod which adds to the friction of the clutch.

The curve of the rod is allways telling you how much force is applied to the line and the whole system. If it is 90 degrees it is exact the test curve e.g. 2,75 lbs. It is not comming up to the mind of many anglers that a rod is actually a quite precise measuring device regarding force applied to the line.

 

Edit: Theloner was faster in describing the use of finger :D

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One additional point re use of finger to assist control during the fight. I was employing this tactic with my xtea's, placing my finger on top of the spool, when everything went loose. I'd inadvertently undone the top of the spool!

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The most important part is to learn how tight you can set the clutch (during the fight) without ripping the carp's mouth apart. It's all very well suggesting that it should be set to "just below the breaking strain of the main-line" but it is sometimes necessary to use very strong braid (I use 55 lb BS on the river) and I'm not sure that a carp's lips would look too good after that treatment.

Keith

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As light as feasible. Fish tend to be annoying and bite when you are distracted or whizzing against a tree or some such. :evil:

 

For me it comes down to method used and the weather wind conditions, float and quivertip are my preferred methods, both with very light drag so there is indication well before the hook is set. It tends to vary, but in the initial stages the drag will be light enough so that the rod never fully loads.

 

The fish should be able to take line on the initial run, headshakes, rolls and changes of direction fairly easily. then slowly tighten a click or two. As the fish comes to the surface slack off the drag and use the rod's ability as others have said.

 

Remember to back the drag off completely after fishing to prevent the drag washers becoming compressed and ineffective.

Cheers,

techo

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